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Routes in Candy Land

Candy Land S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Candy Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cosmic Followers S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nemo S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rock n Rolla S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sugar Rush S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Matt Franklin, Kelley Gilleran
Page Views: 369 total, 22/month
Shared By: Matt Franklin on Aug 2, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

P1 - 5.9 - Follow the bolts up to the roof just right of Rock N Rolla, traverse to the ramp, then up the ramp to the anchors. From the anchors you can TR a fun 10d-ish variation through the middle of the roof.

P2 - 5.6 - Clip a draw in the chains on the first TR anchor and continue up into the saddle on top where there are a couple of hangers to build an anchor on. From there its 7 bolts to the top. Rap back down or scramble up and hike the gully down the back towards fun house wall.

Protection

6 bolts on first pitch, 2 bolt anchor with chains.
7 bolts on second pitch, 2 bolt anchor with chains.

Photos

Chasing Choss
California
Chasing Choss   California
Thanks Matt for adding this one. Stoked to get on it soon. Also even more stoked to see 2nd pitches starting to go up on routes here! Sep 27, 2016
Matt Franklin
Sacramento, CA
 
Matt Franklin   Sacramento, CA
 
Added chains at the anchors on 9/26/2016 and as described above, a second pitch as well. Someone stole the biner. Seems biners left at anchors are considered fair game as booty? Sep 27, 2016
Matt Franklin
Sacramento, CA
 
Matt Franklin   Sacramento, CA
 
NOTE: there is a loose block just under the roof - big X marked on it. Beware! We would have tried harder to get it out but there were a few folks gathered at the crag when we were finishing up cleaning the route. It's keyed in pretty good but is worth noting. Will update if we can pry it loose later. Aug 2, 2016