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Dory

5.6, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Mourad and Tuttle 11/18
California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Bowman/Emeralds > Bowman Valley > Candy Land

Description

This alternate pitch starts from the "More Nemo" mid anchors at Block Ledge and heads up and right up a beautiful slab. Cryptic sequences for the grade and lots of footwork on beautiful Bowman stone make this a worthy pitch. Sport bolted 5.6....Much Gnar! Sick Send! :D

1. Follow approach pitch 5.6 mantle above Candy Land/Nemo to the bolted anchor of "More Nemo" on the Block ledge. 4 bolts. If you take 10 draws you can link this with Nemo from the ground for one longer ~120' pitch.

2. Up and right (70', 6 bolts) to a bolted anchor with chains. 5.6 but more sustained and technical than "More Nemo".

Descent: 70' rappel to "More Nemo" anchor on Block Ledge. 100' rappel to base of Candy Land. One 60M rope barely reaches, be careful. If required (ie rain) you can scramble over the top and follow the gully 3rd class down (north) towards The Fun House or the base of the Gum Drop.

Location

After reaching the "Block Ledge" bolted anchor of More Nemo this alternate pitch of Dory goes up and right where More Nemo goes up and left.

Protection

6 bolts to a bolted anchor with chains.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Overlay for "More Nemo" and "Dory".
[Hide Photo] Overlay for "More Nemo" and "Dory".
Nemo to Dory is a great first multi-pitch climb for the young budding climbers. Excellent route, well-protected, fun exposure
[Hide Photo] Nemo to Dory is a great first multi-pitch climb for the young budding climbers. Excellent route, well-protected, fun exposure
Coming up the "Dory" slab.
[Hide Photo] Coming up the "Dory" slab.
More Nemo goes left (see bolt dust). Dory goes up and right. Taken from Block Ledge anchor on More Nemo.
[Hide Photo] More Nemo goes left (see bolt dust). Dory goes up and right. Taken from Block Ledge anchor on More Nemo.
Bolted anchor for More Nemo and Dory intermediate rappel. One 60m barely reaches the ground on rappel from here at the Block Ledge. Be sure your middle is right at the chains.
[Hide Photo] Bolted anchor for More Nemo and Dory intermediate rappel. One 60m barely reaches the ground on rappel from here at the Block Ledge. Be sure your middle is right at the chains.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Eric L
Roseville, CA
[Hide Comment] Nice work guys; sad I had to work. :( Nov 21, 2018