Type: Trad, Alpine, 1400 ft (424 m), 14 pitches, Grade III
FA: Grohmann, Innerkofler, Salcher 1869
Page Views: 3,051 total · 50/month
Shared By: jason taro on Oct 9, 2018
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route

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The popular and easy Normal Route gets you to the summit of Cima Grande. The route is discontinuous and has a lot of moving the belay, simul climbing, class 3-4 scrambling, with some sections of 5.easy climbing. The number of pitches is described as 14 in some books but is really up to the climbers.

Start the route up the south gulley between Cima Grande and Cima Piccola.

- P1 Climb an easy ramp going left, Class 4
- P2 Continue climbing the ramp until it narrows to a chimney, pass a fixed peg or 2, Class 4
- Continue scrambling in the gulley between the pyramid and Cima Grande proper, there'll be a few large chock stones to know you're on route. Continue climbing the 5.2 wall to the left of the chock stones. There are a few pegs with rap rings as you get higher. Continue into the tight saddle.
- Once at the narrow saddle between the pyramid and Cima Grande proper, step right to Cima Grande and there's a short exposed 5.3 section of climbing.
- Continue climbing left then right into a blocky/sandy gulley then hike across a saddle.
- Continue up Cima Grande proper towards the huge right leaning chimney right under Ringband Terrace until you get to the base of smaller chimney to the right.
- Enter the chimney, there's fixed belays below and on top, 5.3.
- Once you exit the chimney, climb up and left towards the large chimney below Ringband Terrance. Many 5.easy variations exist.
- Once directly under the large chimney, go up and right for about 60 meters until easier ground exits onto the Ringband Terrance, 5.3.
- Walk along Ringbad Terrance (climbers left) until you pass two bivy sights and there are some large rock cairns (steinmann). Then scramble up some steep and exposed scree. Follow cairns and trails or go straight up some ledges until you reach a gulley going up and right.
- Climb the blocky gulley up and right for about 15m then continue right, 5.easy.
- Once you reach an exposed scree ramp, head left, 5.3.
- Climb a chimney gully for 30m and exit onto loose ground to the summit, Class 4.

Descent the route. If done with 60m rope some down climbing and hiking down loose rock / scree is necessary. 


Approach: From the parking lot or Rifugio Auronzo, hike the 101 trail east until a small chapel. At the chapel, find the climbers trail that goes north to the gulley between Cima Grande and Cima Piccola. Go almost all the way up then find an easy Class 3-4 left leaning ramp on the east face of Cima Grande. 


Light rack of camps, a set of nuts, tricams would help. Not much pro is needed. There is some fixed gear.