Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Hans Dulfer & Werner von Bernuth (1913)
Page Views: 6,985 total · 53/month
Shared By: Tim Farkas on Sep 26, 2013
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route

6 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Excellent, sustained climbing on great rock up the west face of Cime Grande. A fun, quick route to the top.

p1. Climb atop a short (5m) pillar on the left, then trend hard right to gain a ledge in the left-facing corner (5.7, 150 ft)
p2. Stem and layback up the hand-crack in the corner (5.8, 100 ft)
p3. Stem straight up the corner another (5.7, 150 ft)
p4. Continue up the corner to a huge boulder at the base of a chimney. Make exposed face moves out right, then back left on top of the boulder for a comfy belay (5.8, 50ft)
p5. Climb into the huge chimney and up behind a massive chockstone. Pull through a large roof/chockstone (5.8, 150 ft)
p6. Walk SE to the base of a chucky OW (1st class, 30 ft)
p7. Trend right up the chunky OW to a sling (5.6, 100 ft)
p8. Climb up awkward blocky rock to a massive ledge with excellent views (5.5, 90 feet)

Classic Climbs of the Dolomites topo is pretty right on for this one.

Location Suggest change

Ascend the larger, more westerly of two gullies between Cime Ovest and Cime Grande. Make sure not to ascent gully between Cime Ovest and more westerly peak. Near the top, escape the gully to the east via short 4th-class scramble through a door, and carefully cross the saddle to Cime Grande. Carefully downclimb 5 metres, then up rock steps ~30 metres 5.0ish to the obvious base of the face (see photo). Solo up 5 metres (5.4) then walk left along a ledge to a short pillar with sling anchors, appx. 15 metres left (north) of a giant corner running up most of the face. Approach takes about 1 hour from Refugio Auronzo.

Descend the Normal Route. Walk 100m along the south of Cime Grande to the east on a good trail past a few south-facing bivies on the left. Follow the trail to where it turns north, and make many rappels down to the SE. 60m rappels useful, but not necessary. Descend the gully between Cime Grande and Cime Piccola. Leave plenty of time for descent. 2 hours minimum, without route-finding and traffic issues.

Protection Suggest change

All belays with good pitons and many pitons on route of varied quality, but mostly good. Bring single rack of cams to 3" and rack of nuts.