Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: FA Mike McNeil and Chris Schillinger around 2010 FFA ?
Page Views: 663 total · 19/month
Shared By: Mike McNeil on Aug 27, 2018
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

This route is on the East summit of Inner Outlet and starts in the large chimney between the east summit of inner outlet and inner outlet.  You can 4th class it up the chimney for about 100ft until you are on a large chalkstone.  The crack starts on top of the chalk stone.  I climbed this ground up on aid quite a while ago placing the only bolt at the end of the crack.  You then have 20 feet of really nice climbing on good rock to the top and a two bolt anchor.  The crack has quite a bit of hands and a couple of fixed pins, but take a full rack with a good selection of small stuff for the cruxy thin crack just before the bolt.  I went back and put in the anchor a couple of years later. I occasionally toproped it, but did not come back for a free ascent until this year.  My son did it free when we were there in May, but it sounds like it had been freed by others before that.  Either way it is a very fun route and a good decent from the really nice Conn Route on that formation. It also makes a good TR if you would like to try it out before getting on lead.  It was quite dirty when I first lead it, but I did clean it up some then. We cleaned it up a lot more in May as it had been a few years since I had been on it so it is in really good shape now.

I originally thought it was about 5.8 A2 as the crack was fairly dirty and not that easy to protect.  You have to free climb the last 20-25 feet past the bolt on really good rock that is well featured but fairly steep. The holds are spaced fairly far at the start of the face climbing so it is a nice 5.8 finish past the 5.10 crux.  Now I think it would be more like 5.8 A1 or 10a if you have to free climb it haha.    

Location

It is in the Chimney between inner outlet and its east summit

Protection

Take a good selection of small gear and cams to a 5 with maybe a couple of extra hand size pieces.

Photos