Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Kevin Bein, Barbara Devine 1981
Page Views: 265 total · 5/month
Shared By: harrison t on Sep 17, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

"This is a beautiful highly recommended route with good protection and excellent stemming and liebacking, somewhat unique in the Needles." - taken from Paul Meuhls Blue Book

Climb the left facing dihedral to an overhang with a fat tooth feature hanging down. Pull though the overhang and continue up the dihedral using the arete and crack pods placing OK gear. Once pulled over on the ledge find the best spot to set an anchor and belay your 2nd. You may have to scramble up a little ways.
Either make a rappel off a super small tree, down climb the conn chimney, or do a low 5th class summit pitch and rap down 'Classic Crack'

- It does have fun and unique climbing, but it is very dirty right now and the protection is not that great.(kind of scary) Once it cleans up it will probably take much better gear in the now grassy/muddy crack pods and be a 3star route.

Location

Directly across from 'sex never did this to my hands'
On the NE corner of Inner outlet (where the variation of the conn chimney starts) down the hill from classic crack.
Small Left facing dihedral 5 feet right of the chimney.

Protection

gray c3-#3, some extra fingers to hand pieces?
Nuts, Micro-Nuts

Photos

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