Avg: 1.4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|Page Views:||751 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Orsag on Jul 20, 2013|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty|
The true first ascent of this route is apparently lost to time. Brent Kertzman and Paul Muehl climbed it in 1982 and found evidence of a yet earlier ascent. Cheyenne Caffey and Mark Orsag placed the anchors, cleaned the route, and added a bolt in 2013. This route is an oddly un-Needles-like trad jugbash. The route starts on a right-trending slab/ramp. At the top of the slab/ramp, it continues to the right in an ascending traverse through a series of large, wildly-shaped wind-eroded holds. It circles below and around an obvious pillar half to two-thirds of the way up. It then climbs up and behind (to the right) of the pillar. Step back left onto the top of the pillar. Clip a single bolt that protects a face move on a bulging slab, and jog up and left to the two-bolt anchor and a generous belay ledge. Sylvan Lake is visible from the top. Good beginner trad lead, though it is a touch physical for an easy climb.
From the Sylvan Lake parking lot, follow the trail around the lake and to the left. Go through the tunnel and bear left toward the bridge/boardwalk on Sunday Gulch Trail. Stop at the beginning of the bridge and head up into the gulley directly right/north of you. A 3rd class scramble gets you into the gully. The ramp and a number of good belay stances should be obvious. Probably best belayed by the leader from above. Rap with 60m rope gets you down easily.
Good cam placements and opportunities to sling the large features almost all the way through. The only marginal placement is atop the pillar, and the single bolt helps there. G-rated climb. Bring at least two slings or runners. Otherwise, a standard rack should suffice. An additional cam can be set in a crack above the bolt to protect the 2nd against a potentially nasty pendulum fall if the 5.6 face move is blown after the bolt is cleaned.