Griffin's Romp and Roll [Suggest Change]
Avg: 1.4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|Page Views:||735 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Orsag on Jul 20, 2013|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty|
Description [Suggest Change]
The true first ascent of this route is apparently lost to time. Brent Kertzman and Paul Muehl climbed it in 1982 and found evidence of a yet earlier ascent. Cheyenne Caffey and Mark Orsag placed the anchors, cleaned the route, and added a bolt in 2013. This route is an oddly un-Needles-like trad jugbash. The route starts on a right-trending slab/ramp. At the top of the slab/ramp, it continues to the right in an ascending traverse through a series of large, wildly-shaped wind-eroded holds. It circles below and around an obvious pillar half to two-thirds of the way up. It then climbs up and behind (to the right) of the pillar. Step back left onto the top of the pillar. Clip a single bolt that protects a face move on a bulging slab, and jog up and left to the two-bolt anchor and a generous belay ledge. Sylvan Lake is visible from the top. Good beginner trad lead, though it is a touch physical for an easy climb.
Location [Suggest Change]
From the Sylvan Lake parking lot, follow the trail around the lake and to the left. Go through the tunnel and bear left toward the bridge/boardwalk on Sunday Gulch Trail. Stop at the beginning of the bridge and head up into the gulley directly right/north of you. A 3rd class scramble gets you into the gully. The ramp and a number of good belay stances should be obvious. Probably best belayed by the leader from above. Rap with 60m rope gets you down easily.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Good cam placements and opportunities to sling the large features almost all the way through. The only marginal placement is atop the pillar, and the single bolt helps there. G-rated climb. Bring at least two slings or runners. Otherwise, a standard rack should suffice. An additional cam can be set in a crack above the bolt to protect the 2nd against a potentially nasty pendulum fall if the 5.6 face move is blown after the bolt is cleaned.