Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Bob Archbold and C. Rex. Sept '78
Page Views: 1,422 total · 15/month
Shared By: Wilson On The Drums on Aug 9, 2013
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

Stem between Inner Outlet and the rock behind you, follow the flake to the first bolt. For me the crux was moving past the first bolt, I found it impossible to get established to lie-back the flake to the right of the bolt with out first committing to the face to the left of the bolt. If you're tall you'll be able to stem between the features to get the lie-back. I had to make some very tricky moves, both delicate and powerful to get into the lie-back (5.9 imo if you're 5'8" or under). Keep heading up and follow the spaced out bolt line putting in a piece of gear here and there if needed. The climbing is significantly easier once higher up (5.7ish). There's a pretty cool buldge/flake that you mantle at about 3/4 of the way. 6 or so bolts and one piton( the route has been retrobolted, it use to only have 2 bolts and the pin, think about that each time you make a clip). Have fun!

Location

15 feet left of Classic Crack. Route follows the flake to the first bolt, keep heading up from there, can do some stemming to get to the first bolt. Rappel Classic Crack, one 70m will get you down other wise 2 60s will be needed.

Protection

Standard Rack and 8 or so draws for the bolts. I recommend long trad draws to reduce rope drag.

Photos