Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Fred Beckey, Jim Crooks, Ed Kenney. August 19th, 1940
Page Views: 5,608 total · 146/month
Shared By: Nick Sweeney on Jul 29, 2018
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details


From the North Ridge Notch, climb up a trough and over some unprotected 5.6 slab to gain the ridge crest.  From here, continue moving up the ridge, mostly following second and third class ramps and corners on the East (left) side of the ridge. Once you reach the final gendarme before the summit, do a short 5.0 downclimb and cross the flat part of the ridge to final summit headwall.  This headwall is easily climbed in a single 5.4 pitch.


The North Ridge can be approached from Rainy Pass via the Pacific Crest Trail into Porcupine Creek.  From this side, you must climb 2-3 short pitches of low fifth class to gain the North Ridge Notch.  Alternatively, you can approach as for the South Buttress route, veering right off of that approach below the lower part of the South Buttress to gain the basin Southeast of Cutthroat Peak.  From this side, there is a loose and runout (5.7 PG13) pitch that gains the North Ridge Notch. The crux of this pitch can be somewhat protected with one or two marginal cams (narrow head width cams help greatly), but it's best not to test them!


Single Rack .4-3, nuts