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Washington
> Northwest Region
> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
> N Cascades
> Washington Pass
> Cutthroat Peak
North Ridge
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.7 from 24
votes
Routes in Cutthroat Peak
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Cauthorn-Wilson T WI4 |
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Complete South Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Swarm, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Fred Beckey, Jim Crooks, Ed Kenney. August 19th, 1940 |
| Page Views: | 7,611 total · 96/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Sweeney on Jul 29, 2018 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
From the North Ridge Notch, climb up a trough and over some unprotected 5.6 slab to gain the ridge crest. From here, continue moving up the ridge, mostly following second and third class ramps and corners on the East (left) side of the ridge. Once you reach the final gendarme before the summit, do a short 5.0 downclimb and cross the flat part of the ridge to final summit headwall. This headwall is easily climbed in a single 5.4 pitch.
Location
The North Ridge can be approached from Rainy Pass via the Pacific Crest Trail into Porcupine Creek. From this side, you must climb 2-3 short pitches of low fifth class to gain the North Ridge Notch. Alternatively, you can approach as for the South Buttress route, veering right off of that approach below the lower part of the South Buttress to gain the basin Southeast of Cutthroat Peak. From this side, there is a loose and runout (5.7 PG13) pitch that gains the North Ridge Notch. The crux of this pitch can be somewhat protected with one or two marginal cams (narrow head width cams help greatly), but it's best not to test them!
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