Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Fred Beckey, Jim Crooks, Ed Kenney. August 19th, 1940
Page Views: 655 total · 96/month
Shared By: Nick Sweeney on Jul 29, 2018
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

From the North Ridge Notch, climb up a trough and over some unprotected 5.6 slab to gain the ridge crest.  From here, continue moving up the ridge, mostly following second and third class ramps and corners on the East (left) side of the ridge. Once you reach the final gendarme before the summit, do a short 5.0 downclimb and cross the flat part of the ridge to final summit headwall.  This headwall is easily climbed in a single 5.4 pitch.

Location

The North Ridge can be approached from Rainy Pass via the Pacific Crest Trail into Porcupine Creek.  From this side, you must climb 2-3 short pitches of low fifth class to gain the North Ridge Notch.  Alternatively, you can approach as for the South Buttress route, veering right off of that approach below the lower part of the South Buttress to gain the basin Southeast of Cutthroat Peak.  From this side, there is a very loose and runout pitch that gains the North Ridge Notch. The 5.7- crux of this pitch can be somewhat protected with two marginal cams.

Protection

Single Rack .4-3, nuts

Photos

Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
  5.7 PG13
Curt Veldhuisen   Bellingham, WA
  5.7 PG13
Nice moderate route! The PCT approach (west side) is brush free and the approach pitches (~1.5?) are on good rock. Gave the route a PG because the gendarme section has minimal pro, though pretty easy. Many opinions on descending this peak but we reversed the route, which went fine with a mix of rappels and down-climbing. Aug 22, 2018