Cauthorn-Wilson

Climb snow or neve for roughly 400 feet to reach a WI3-WI3+ ice pitch.  Climb this to a fixed piton anchor at the base of the crux pitch, which is sustained WI4 for a stretch before it slightly eases off to WI3+. From the top of the crux pitch, head for the ridgeline in three or four pitches that may be snow, ice, or mixed.  

Many parties choose to descend from the ridgeline on rock anchors (some fixed) or possible V-threads to enable an easy descent to their skis or snowshoes at the base of the route.  Instead, you can choose to climb several more moderate(?) pitches to the summit.  Protection may be hard to get on these pitches, which go at 5.4 in the summer.  From the summit, the West Ridge descent may be preferable to a descent of the route.

East face of Cutthroat Peak. Approach as for South Buttress, but cross over the rib extending south from the S Buttress into the basin East of Cutthroat Peak.  The route is obvious (the big couloir on the East Face), but be very cautious of avalanche conditions on these East-facing slopes that get sun for most of the day.

Screws, nuts, pitons, cams to 1". Emphasis on small gear. Two 60m ropes.

This route gets a lot of sun.  The best time for an attempt is as soon as possible after the annual opening of Highway 20, usually in April or May.