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Washington
> Northwest Region
> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
> N Cascades
> Washington Pass
> Cutthroat Peak
Cauthorn-Wilson
WI4
Avg: 3.1 from 7
votes
Routes in Cutthroat Peak
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Cauthorn-Wilson T WI4 |
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Complete South Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Swarm, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Dan Cauthorn and Tim Wilson |
| Page Views: | 3,997 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Sweeney on Nov 22, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
Climb snow or neve for roughly 400 feet to reach a WI3-WI3+ ice pitch. Climb this to a fixed piton anchor at the base of the crux pitch, which is sustained WI4 for a stretch before it slightly eases off to WI3+. From the top of the crux pitch, head for the ridgeline in three or four pitches that may be snow, ice, or mixed.
Many parties choose to descend from the ridgeline on rock anchors (some fixed) or possible V-threads to enable an easy descent to their skis or snowshoes at the base of the route. Instead, you can choose to climb several more moderate(?) pitches to the summit. Protection may be hard to get on these pitches, which go at 5.4 in the summer. From the summit, the West Ridge descent may be preferable to a descent of the route.
Many parties choose to descend from the ridgeline on rock anchors (some fixed) or possible V-threads to enable an easy descent to their skis or snowshoes at the base of the route. Instead, you can choose to climb several more moderate(?) pitches to the summit. Protection may be hard to get on these pitches, which go at 5.4 in the summer. From the summit, the West Ridge descent may be preferable to a descent of the route.
Location
East face of Cutthroat Peak. Approach as for South Buttress, but cross over the rib extending south from the S Buttress into the basin East of Cutthroat Peak. The route is obvious (the big couloir on the East Face), but be very cautious of avalanche conditions on these East-facing slopes that get sun for most of the day.
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