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Routes in Cutthroat Peak

Cauthorn-Wilson T WI4+
Complete South Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 3200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,326 total · 29/month
Shared By: Brian McFarlane on Mar 10, 2015 with updates from Nick Sweeney
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Fairly easy route that can be done with running belays. Summit is nice, descent requires a fair amount of rappelling. Average time from Trailhead to Summit is 6 hours. And about 4 hours to go back down to the TH.

The West Ridge is the standard descent route for the peak.

Location

From the North Cascades Highway, about 2 mi west of Washington Pass, drop down and cross creek and ascend meadows into the bowl southwest of the summit. Ascend to the saddle just west of the end of the West Ridge.

Traverse east along the South Face of the West Ridge about 100 ft to a shallow blocky gully. Scramble the first section of the gully and then belay up to the ridge crest past two solid pitons (about a 50 ft pitch). Easy scrambling along the ridge leads to the summit block. The last section of the ridge is exposed. A belay may be needed. At the summit block traverse an obvious ledge to the North Ridge. One belayed low 5th class pitch and easy scrambling leads to the summit.

Descent: All rappel anchors are now bolted.  The first anchor is obvious, just west of the summit.  Rappel to another set of bolted anchors and rappel again to a flat part of the ridge.  From here, bypass two Southwest facing gullies (looks like many teams get sucked into these... don't do it!) and begin easily downclimbing the ascent route, right along the ultra-exposed ridge crest.  Eventually, you'll be forced off of the ridge crest onto 3rd class ledges on the South side of the ridge.  Make three more rappels from bolted anchors to reach the ground.

Protection

Small stoppers and any-size cams useful for running belays.

Photos

Diana Y
  5.6
Diana Y  
  5.6
The rap anchors are nice, new bolts with big thick hangers. They can be hard to find. Jul 16, 2017

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