Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
All Locations >
Washington
> Northwest Region
> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
> N Cascades
> Washington Pass
> Cutthroat Peak
West Ridge
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2 from 22
votes
Routes in Cutthroat Peak
|
|
Cauthorn-Wilson T WI4 |
|
|
Complete South Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
North Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
South Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Swarm, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
|
|
West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 3200 ft (970 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 5,013 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | Brian McFarlane on Mar 10, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
Fairly easy route that can be done with running belays. Summit is nice, descent requires a fair amount of rappelling. Average time from Trailhead to Summit is 6 hours. And about 4 hours to go back down to the TH.
The West Ridge is the standard descent route for the peak.
The West Ridge is the standard descent route for the peak.
Location
From the North Cascades Highway, about 2 mi west of Washington Pass, drop down and cross creek and ascend meadows into the bowl southwest of the summit. Ascend to the saddle just west of the end of the West Ridge.
Traverse east along the South Face of the West Ridge about 100 ft to a shallow blocky gully. Scramble the first section of the gully and then belay up to the ridge crest past two solid pitons (about a 50 ft pitch). Easy scrambling along the ridge leads to the summit block. The last section of the ridge is exposed. A belay may be needed. At the summit block traverse an obvious ledge to the North Ridge. One belayed low 5th class pitch and easy scrambling leads to the summit.
Descent: All rappel anchors are now bolted. The first anchor is obvious, just west of the summit. Rappel to another set of bolted anchors and rappel again to a flat part of the ridge. From here, bypass two Southwest facing gullies (looks like many teams get sucked into these... don't do it!) and begin easily downclimbing the ascent route, right along the ultra-exposed ridge crest. Eventually, you'll be forced off of the ridge crest onto 3rd class ledges on the South side of the ridge. Make three more rappels from bolted anchors to reach the ground.
Traverse east along the South Face of the West Ridge about 100 ft to a shallow blocky gully. Scramble the first section of the gully and then belay up to the ridge crest past two solid pitons (about a 50 ft pitch). Easy scrambling along the ridge leads to the summit block. The last section of the ridge is exposed. A belay may be needed. At the summit block traverse an obvious ledge to the North Ridge. One belayed low 5th class pitch and easy scrambling leads to the summit.
Descent: All rappel anchors are now bolted. The first anchor is obvious, just west of the summit. Rappel to another set of bolted anchors and rappel again to a flat part of the ridge. From here, bypass two Southwest facing gullies (looks like many teams get sucked into these... don't do it!) and begin easily downclimbing the ascent route, right along the ultra-exposed ridge crest. Eventually, you'll be forced off of the ridge crest onto 3rd class ledges on the South side of the ridge. Make three more rappels from bolted anchors to reach the ground.
4 Comments