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Routes in Cutthroat Peak

Cauthorn-Wilson T WI4+
Complete South Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 3200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 921 total · 24/month
Shared By: Brian McFarlane on Mar 10, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description [Edit]

Fairly easy route that can be done with running belays. Summit is nice, descent requires a fair amount of rappelling. Average time from Trailhead to Summit is 6 hours. And about 4 hours to go back down to the TH.

Location [Edit]

From the North Cascades Highway, about 2 mi west of Washington Pass, drop down and cross creek and ascend meadows into the bowl southwest of the summit. Ascend to the saddle just west of the end of the West Ridge.

Traverse east along the South Face of the West Ridge about 100 ft to a shallow blocky gully. Scramble the first section of the gully and then belay up to the ridge crest past two solid pitons (about a 50 ft pitch). Easy scrambling along the ridge leads to the summit block. The last section of the ridge is exposed. A belay may be needed. At the summit block traverse an obvious ledge to the North Ridge. One belayed low 5th class pitch and easy scrambling leads to the summit.

Rappel and downclimb the route. Important Note: The current rappel anchors are very suspect; leaders should be prepared to devise new ones for 1999 (probably a bolt kit or pitons).

Protection [Edit]

Small stoppers and any-size cams useful for running belays.


Diana Y
Diana Y  
The rap anchors are nice, new bolts with big thick hangers. They can be hard to find. Jul 16, 2017

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