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Routes in Gandalf Wall
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Gamle rev T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gandalf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gollum T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Guns 'n' Roses T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tromso ekspressen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 320 ft (97 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Ed Webster, Thorbjorn Enevold 1993 |
| Page Views: | 757 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Nathaniel Chu on Jul 22, 2018 |
| Admins: | Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Description
("Old Fox") Another set of nice cracks in the Gandalf wall provides clean, low-stakes climbing.
P1) 5.9 45M. Start left of the often black, seeping slabs near the middle of the wall. Layback or jam up a nice left-facing corner, until a hornizontal crack leads you left over a small overlap. Continue up this corner system until another small curve left at a bulge, up the slab to a very short corner, and then step left to a nice belay stance. The guidebook has this at 5.10, but that felt generous.
P2) 5.10a 60. Continue up the groove above the belay into a grassy ramp. Climb a short crack that cleaves the face on the right, and then make your way up a thin crack in the headwall above. Belay at the top.
Descent: walk off to the left.
P1) 5.9 45M. Start left of the often black, seeping slabs near the middle of the wall. Layback or jam up a nice left-facing corner, until a hornizontal crack leads you left over a small overlap. Continue up this corner system until another small curve left at a bulge, up the slab to a very short corner, and then step left to a nice belay stance. The guidebook has this at 5.10, but that felt generous.
P2) 5.10a 60. Continue up the groove above the belay into a grassy ramp. Climb a short crack that cleaves the face on the right, and then make your way up a thin crack in the headwall above. Belay at the top.
Descent: walk off to the left.
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