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Gamle rev
5.10a,
Trad, 320 ft (97 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.6 from 7
votes
FA: Ed Webster, Thorbjorn Enevold 1993
International
> Europe
> Norway
> Lofoten
> Gandalf Wall
Description
("Old Fox") Another set of nice cracks in the Gandalf wall provides clean, low-stakes climbing.
P1) 5.9 45M. Start left of the often black, seeping slabs near the middle of the wall. Layback or jam up a nice left-facing corner, until a hornizontal crack leads you left over a small overlap. Continue up this corner system until another small curve left at a bulge, up the slab to a very short corner, and then step left to a nice belay stance. The guidebook has this at 5.10, but that felt generous.
P2) 5.10a 60. Continue up the groove above the belay into a grassy ramp. Climb a short crack that cleaves the face on the right, and then make your way up a thin crack in the headwall above. Belay at the top.
Descent: walk off to the left.
Location
Locate two parallel left-facing corners above an area just left of a black, perhaps seepy slab.
Protection
Standard rack