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Gamle rev

5.10a, Trad, 320 ft (97 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.6 from 7 votes
FA: Ed Webster, Thorbjorn Enevold 1993
International > Europe > Norway > Lofoten > Gandalf Wall

Description

("Old Fox") Another set of nice cracks in the Gandalf wall provides clean, low-stakes climbing.

P1) 5.9 45M. Start left of the often black, seeping slabs near the middle of the wall. Layback or jam up a nice left-facing corner, until a hornizontal crack leads you left over a small overlap. Continue up this corner system until another small curve left at a bulge, up the slab to a very short corner, and then step left to a nice belay stance. The guidebook has this at 5.10, but that felt generous.

P2) 5.10a 60. Continue up the groove above the belay into a grassy ramp. Climb a short crack that cleaves the face on the right, and then make your way up a thin crack in the headwall above. Belay at the top.

Descent: walk off to the left.

Location

Locate two parallel left-facing corners above an area just left of a black, perhaps seepy slab.

Protection

Standard rack

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Start of Gamle Rev
[Hide Photo] Start of Gamle Rev