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Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (z) Lower Gorge
> W Side
> (1) Parched Cat Cliff…
Edgewise
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 9
votes
Routes in (1) Parched Cat Cliff (aka Cox Rocks)
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Cox Rocks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cretin's Retreat T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Edgewise S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ferret's Dead, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Half-n-Half aka Hack Attack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lonesome Crowded West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Oriface T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Physical Abuse T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Snowbirds T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Three Fingered Hack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 44.36851, -121.13117 |
| FA: | Bill Soule 1993 |
| Page Views: | 1,050 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Piarulli on Jun 11, 2018 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
The first route you walk by on your way to all the other classics in the lower gorge is totally worth stopping for. It climbs face holds and an arete high up on perfect chocolate basalt. Standard approach is scrambling uphill around the right side of the crag to a belay bolt. A good alternative is to link from the ground via Little Orphan Jammies (5.10d) fun finger splitter to hard stem corner, using features on the right then straight up to the first bolt.
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