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Routes in (1) Parched Cat Cliff (aka Cox Rocks)

Cretin's Retreat T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Edgewise S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ferret's Dead, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half-n-Half aka Hack Attack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lonesome Crowded West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oriface T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Physical Abuse T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three Fingered Hack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: to original anchors, Stu Stuller, Pete Pollard, 1981 entire route, Chuck Buzzard, 1983
Page Views: 554 total · 4/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Nov 22, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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It's the obvious corner in the middle of the crag. Stemming and jamming the finger crack gets you most of the way up, with the crux coming at the top when the crack runs out. This route shares a bolted anchor with The Ferret's Dead.


Parched Cat cliff, this is the first really obvious corner you encounter after scrambling down from the rim.


Gear to 2.5 inches


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Portland, OR
rpc   Portland, OR
Thought this was better than Wildfire next door that gets 4 stars from Watts (longer & more sustained stemming). Sep 21, 2007
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
Ditto on this being better than Wildfire. There's an extension called Orifice (10b) now doable with a 70m rope, a couple of draws and medium/small cams. Worth doing! Sep 6, 2012

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