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Routes in The White Wall

Another Day in Paradise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Apache Rose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Billy the Kid T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Born in the Desert T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cactus Fingers T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Egg Timer, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Forks Flyer T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hocus Focus T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
K.C. Crypt Keeper T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Little Prince, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Meat Puppet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonrise Kingdom T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
New Kid On The Blocks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Perfect Beast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Popeye T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Prudence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raised in a Lion's Den T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sage Against the Machine T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Skull Digger T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Tatanka Blanca T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Tiger Bomb T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
White Narwhal, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
White Rose, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: JK
Page Views: 398 total · 39/month
Shared By: Jason Kevin on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Long moves on cobble-like edges reach a rest several meters up at your first well earned placement; a glove-fit offset yellow stopper. Execute an easy mantle to gain an effortless no hands rest on the large ramping ledge. Oppose the offset seam and establish your left foot on a greasy yet positive imperfection far on the left face. Press where you can with the right hand and take advantage of the mediocre left hand crimp to assist upward movement. A high right foot smear on B-B sized protrusions proved the only solution to an otherwise impossible crux. Levitate into the featureless flare and will yourself into lying back off to the right of the seam. Balance through powerful open handed laybacks, walk high on slick foot smears, and sink a strenuous kneebar at the Green C3 placement. Grasp the only jug on the route before performing the final hard moves: bumping the right hand up gaston crimps and pressing into the hand crack below the roof. Weasel out of the roof onto an arete, ascending good holds and and a small scramble to a big ledge with a Juniper.

Location

Right of 'The Troll" at the far left side of the White Wall is an obtuse, black streaked left facing corner beneath a small roof system.

Protection

Yellow #7 offset nut
Purple #.00 C3
Blue #3 nut
Blue #1 Lowe Ball
Quickdraw
#3 Camalot
Red #2 Lowe Ball
Green #0 C3
A second Blue #3 nut (optional)
#2 Camalot
#.2 (optional)

Photos

Eric D
Gnarnia
Eric D   Gnarnia
Nice work! Though would prefer not having move-by-move beta in the route description. Looks like a great route. Oct 23, 2017
Jason Kevin
Munds Park, AZ
  5.13
Jason Kevin   Munds Park, AZ
  5.13
This is easily one of THE hardest lines at the Forks. I would recommend trying the route...then see if you would still complain about the spray;) Thanks for the comment, though. Oct 24, 2017
Eric D
Gnarnia
Eric D   Gnarnia
No offense meant. Proud work! Hardest line at the forks? Oct 24, 2017
Jason Kevin
Munds Park, AZ
  5.13
Jason Kevin   Munds Park, AZ
  5.13
I wouldn't be so bold to call it the single hardest route, but top three or four for sure. Oct 24, 2017
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Looks sweet Jk. Now that bolts in the forks arent frowned upon there is potential for all kinds of hard routes! And also moderate ones for that matter! Oct 25, 2017
Jason Kevin
Munds Park, AZ
  5.13
Jason Kevin   Munds Park, AZ
  5.13
No bolts here! Oct 25, 2017
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Bummer, I must have misunderstood some of the recent developments on the White Wall. I see KC Crypt is all gear. Proud work! Just dont give away which side of your harness to rack each piece haha! Oct 26, 2017

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