Another Day in Paradise
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|FA:||Z. Harrison, J. Snyder|
|Page Views:||138 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Zach Harrison on Oct 14, 2014|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionAnother Day in Paradise consists of multiple cruxes, solid gear, awesome holds and just a bit of spice!
Boulder out of Sedona up big ledges to gain the actual rock. Solid gear is had once at the stance below the roof. Neat holds lead to the beta crux. Puzzle your way up to the second roof and some jams. Swing right and giggle up heroic section of thin hands. As the crack pinches down, fussy but good gear will see you into the cramped stance below the final roof. A blind nut can protect the final section, but only if you get it right! Engineer your way up positive choss through the 'ball pit' to the top.
LocationThis slice of paradise sits on the left edge of the White Wall, about 25 feet left of Forks Flyer in the middle of the red soil. Climb around the left side of a horizontal roof 20 feet up.
ProtectionA lot of the pitch wanted to eat small nuts, while cams of the same size never quite sat right.
I used 2X #3-6 BD Stoppers, 1X#8,9 BD Stopper. 1X TCU's and cams from BD#00-#2 with 2X BD .3's. On top, grab a rap line and tie it off of a pine 60 feet back from the edge for a solid anchor. Bring plenty of runners as the crack wanders a lot.