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Routes in The White Wall

Another Day in Paradise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Apache Rose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Billy the Kid T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Born in the Desert T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Egg Timer, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Forks Flyer T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hocus Focus T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
K.C. Crypt Keeper T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Little Prince, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Meat Puppet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonrise Kingdom T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
New Kid On The Blocks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Perfect Beast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Popeye T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Prudence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Skull Digger T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Tiger Bomb T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
White Narwhal , The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
White Rose, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Z. Harrison, J. Snyder
Page Views: 122 total, 3/month
Shared By: Zach Harrison on Oct 14, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Another Day in Paradise consists of multiple cruxes, solid gear, awesome holds and just a bit of spice!
Boulder out of Sedona up big ledges to gain the actual rock. Solid gear is had once at the stance below the roof. Neat holds lead to the beta crux. Puzzle your way up to the second roof and some jams. Swing right and giggle up heroic section of thin hands. As the crack pinches down, fussy but good gear will see you into the cramped stance below the final roof. A blind nut can protect the final section, but only if you get it right! Engineer your way up positive choss through the 'ball pit' to the top.

Location

This slice of paradise sits on the left edge of the White Wall, about 25 feet left of Forks Flyer in the middle of the red soil. Climb around the left side of a horizontal roof 20 feet up.

Protection

A lot of the pitch wanted to eat small nuts, while cams of the same size never quite sat right.
I used 2X #3-6 BD Stoppers, 1X#8,9 BD Stopper. 1X TCU's and cams from BD#00-#2 with 2X BD .3's. On top, grab a rap line and tie it off of a pine 60 feet back from the edge for a solid anchor. Bring plenty of runners as the crack wanders a lot.

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