Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: JK/Bloom
Page Views: 260 total · 17/month
Shared By: Jason Kevin on Sep 6, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

With your first gear placement being a ball nut 15+ feet off the deck, and the following three pieces being slider nuts as well, the mental battle with feeling safe evokes tenuous movement. Succeed through the opening sequence of exaggerated highstep-stemming before formatting your personal barn door solution. Gun it to a pair of straight-edge jugs at the obvious #2 Cam slot, recharge your battery before making a tough nut placement, then execute a few reachy moves on small but positive slots, surmounting the large ledge via a lava-esque basalt topout.

Location

A thin seam at the far left side of the White Wall with a subtle S-Curve, just left of Meat Puppet.

Protection

In this order:
Red #2 Ball Nut (15 ft. up),
Red #2 Ball Nut,
Blue #1 Ball Nut,
Red #2 Ball Nut (Blind Placement),
Red C3 #1, Gold #2 Camalot,
Small #3 (blue) wire stopper,
Small #6 (green) wire stopper

Photos

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I can't imagine the sharp, downward pointing flake just left of the crux will be with us too long. Careful where you put your belayer on this one. May 15, 2018