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Routes in 04. Psychedelic Rock

Another Brick in the Wall S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barracuda S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Hot Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Comfortably Numb S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't Bring Me Down S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Empty Spaces S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flaming (c)Lips, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Highway to Hell S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jumping Jack Flash S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Let it Burn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Matchhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Money S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Run Like Hell S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thriller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Total Eclipse S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turn to Stone S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Us and Them S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: FA: Mike Engle and Linda Engle, July 2017 bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, and Mike Engle, July 2017
Page Views: 184 total · 12/month
Shared By: Mike Engle on Jul 24, 2017
Admins: Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

This is one of 6 routes that is accessed from the broad ledge below a broad steep face called "The Wall". Use one of 4 approach pitch options (Don't Bring Me Down, I Turn to Stone, Stairway to Heaven, or Barracuda) to gain chain anchors on a comfortable ledge.

Us and Them starts just right of the chain anchors and climb straight up continuous, steep thin chert for 100 feet right up the middle of the face. The chert is strong but brittle, especially when wet. Be careful to place feet on holds and don't kick them. The holds are half pad crimps to full on jugs. Thin and thoughtful climbing starts immediately off the ledge and doesn't let up until you clip the anchors.

Location

Middle route on "The Wall".

See the beta picture for relative location.

Protection

12 bolts, chain anchors. Single rappel on a 60 meter rope gets you back to the ledge. Another single rappel on a 60 meter rope gets you back to the ground.

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Mike Sullivan
Pocatello, ID
Mike Sullivan   Pocatello, ID
Nice route to get used to these cool chert holds! Good feet, good bolt spacing and consistent grade. Thanks for all the hard work put into these climbs and the approach trails. Jul 27, 2018

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