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Areas in The Fins

56 Wall, The 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Discovery Wall, The 0 / 33 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 33
Head Wall, The 0 / 24 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Mortal Earth 0 / 55 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 55
Solstice 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Warm up Wall 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Yellow Cake 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Elevation: 7,500 ft
GPS: 43.731, -113.084 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Jaren Watson on May 9, 2013
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle
Getting weather forecast...

Description

For more comprehensive information, purchase the excellent guide, Sweet Spots, by Jerry Painter and Matt TeNgaio.
One of the original hard men, Dave Bingham, has written Underground Idaho which also contains the latest information concerning climbing at the Fins and other local crags.

Located at the southern end of the Lost River mountain range, the Fins offer climbing unlike any other in southeast Idaho. On vertical to slightly overhung walls of immaculate limestone, most routes here feature positive edges and secure pockets. The rock is somewhat sharp, but the texture is excellent. Chances are, your tips will wear out before your forearms.
The walls at the Fins have seen significant new development as of 2012, so there are many more routes than I have descriptions for. Dave Bingham, Matt TeNgaio, and Jonathan Siegrist have been the major contributors lately. We all owe a huge thanks to these guys and the earlier developers for their hard work and vision.

Morning sun, afternoon shade. When it's too hot to climb elsewhere, excellent conditions can be found at the Fins in the afternoon and evening of even the hottest summer days.

In the summer of 2017, significant new route activity started up in the area formerly known as "Burning Spear". "Burning Spear" had 6 seldom visited routes and no access trail. Now, there is a new access trail and several more crags were developed. The new route count is around 35 and is increasing every weekend. The crags are not quite as steep as the upper Fins and consequently the routes are of a more moderate nature - mostly in the 10 to 11 range. The stone is featured, high quality limestone with crimps, pockets, pinches, runnels and chert. The expanded area is renamed "Mortal Earth". There remain a ton of new route potential and it is likely there will be many more routes put in at Mortal Earth.

Getting There

South of Howe on Highway 33, turn west at a gravel pit into Eightmile Canyon. Keep right on the dirt road as it enters the canyon. If you've got a four-wheel drive vehicle, drive five miles to basically the top of the mountain and park in the established parking.
For low-clearance vehicles, you'll need to park in the lower parking (about 3.5 miles from the highway).

129 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Fins

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Man
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
EBR-1
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ghost in the Shell
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Martini
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shaken Not Stirred
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Jet A
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Solstice
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Clips from the Bong
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Baked Potato
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bean Fiddler
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dinner Roll
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Al's Diner
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Make it a Double
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Son of Discovery
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bushido
Sport
Yellow Man Discovery Wall > Martini Sector 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
EBR-1 Discovery Wall > Martini Sector 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Ghost in the Shell Head Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Martini Discovery Wall > Martini Sector 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Shaken Not Stirred Discovery Wall > Martini Sector 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Jet A Discovery Wall > Jet A Sector 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Solstice Solstice 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Clips from the Bong Head Wall 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Baked Potato Head Wall 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Bean Fiddler Head Wall 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Dinner Roll Discovery Wall > Martini Sector 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Al's Diner Head Wall 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Make it a Double Discovery Wall > Martini Sector 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Son of Discovery Discovery Wall > Martini Sector 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Bushido Discovery Wall > Mothership Sector 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Fins »

Weather Averages

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karl vochatzer
Cedar City, UT
karl vochatzer   Cedar City, UT
Anyone considering this crag as a place to experience the total solar eclipse this coming Monday, the 21st? On camping, is there one spot 1.5 miles from lower parking or two as in the top of the 4x4 road? Driving in with a 2012 4Runner 4WD. Aug 15, 2017
Mike Engle
Pocatello, Idaho
Mike Engle   Pocatello, Idaho  
It's primitive Forest Service land. Your dog will be welcome by most climbers so long as it's well behaved and you pick up after it. Aug 15, 2017
Does anyone know if dogs are permitted? Thanks in advance. Aug 14, 2017
Dana Walters 1
Spokane, Washington
Dana Walters 1   Spokane, Washington
Is there an updated TOPO for the Fins? Aug 9, 2017
Mike Engle
Pocatello, Idaho
Mike Engle   Pocatello, Idaho  
Mikel - mostly still good in early Oct but with afternoon shade, it's not uncommon to need a puffy for belaying. Good sending temps! Give me a call if you plan to come. Aug 2, 2017
would early Oct be good for the Fins? Aug 2, 2017
I'm a climber from Seattle who is looking to spend July 25th-Aug6/7 in the fins, is anyone going to be around and interested in partnering up?

Thanks (would just post in forums but haven't gotten a lot of responses. Will delete post trip)

Jasna Jul 19, 2017
Derek Hayton
Boise
Derek Hayton   Boise
Does anyone know what the bolt line between Martini and EBR-1 is? It looks like new hardware? Jul 6, 2017
Accidentally walked off with a draw that wasn't mine. Let me know if it's yours and what it looks like and I'd be happy to mail it to you. My number is 4159993570. Jun 28, 2017
Erez Shani
Boulder
Erez Shani   Boulder
The lower camping is located 1.5 miles off the highway.
If you don't have clearance or reliable car you better hitchhike from there..

If you still attempt to drive up for the lower parking climbing access at least stop 3.3 miles of the highway next to the "high voltage cable" sign and walk from there, the real steep part starts there and just get worst.

No toilet there, so bring a wagbag or at least a trowel to make a respectable hole.. Jun 21, 2017
Sam Thompson
Missoula, Montana
Sam Thompson   Missoula, Montana
Wife and I are looking to hit up the fins after July.
We've got an 05 Honda pilot with AWD and moderate/high clearance.
Any update of the road conditions this year? How accessible is the camping up high?

Cheers, May 22, 2017
Randall Stacy   Boise
Anyone know what road conditions are like or know when the road might come in given the above average snow year? Apr 27, 2017
A 2016 version of the "Sweet Spots" guide exists. We found it to be pretty comprehensive for the Fins. It covers other areas and activities as well. Sep 11, 2016
Will I be able to get my RAV4 to the upper parking this year? I took a Tacoma last year and thought 'fairly unlikely' but maybe conditions have changed? Also, where is the best place to tent camp if we can't get to the upper parking? Thanks! Jun 29, 2016
Old lady H
Boise, Idaho
Old lady H   Boise, Idaho
Howe, Idaho is about 5,000 feet, so could be cold at night any time of year. That part of Idaho is very dry, maybe 9" precipitation, so not a giant snow pack. Check Arco, Idaho, maybe, for weather, maybe Howe. We did have a good snow year, so it might not be doable. Haven't been there, yet, only over to Borah. Feb 18, 2016
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
Would mid April be an acceptable time to take a trip to the Fins? Feb 16, 2016
Old lady H
Boise, Idaho
Old lady H   Boise, Idaho
For out of state folks, if you've already driven this far, do make the drive up through Mackay to Mount Borah. The Lost River range is very little known, outside of Idaho, but is truly beautiful. The Sawtooths are the postcard mountains, but Leatherman, Borah, Church and the others are spit in your face bad boys.

Howe (King mountain) is a serious (world class) hang/para gliding/soaring town, with competitions, including ridiculously long flights. 180 miles! Feb 12, 2016
WAGbag
Denver, CO
WAGbag   Denver, CO  
The upper part of the road has gotten worse in the last year. Fun fact: The steepest sections I measured at 19 degrees (or 34% grade). On the plus side the trails have gotten better - thanks to whoever is doing that. Sep 30, 2015
Dont attempt driving up the hill unless you have 4wheel drive and know how to drive a 4wheel vehicle. And old cars can easily overheat. Park at the low parking or hitch a ride. Jun 21, 2015
WAGbag
Denver, CO
WAGbag   Denver, CO  
On the upper parking: Clearance isn't necessarily an issue as a reasonably skilled driver in a Subaru can make it. If you have low-range use it, if you have a transmission temp warning light, pay attention to it, if you don't, plan to take a rest or three on the way up to give your tranny a rest (automatics). Watch your engine temp too, mine was fine on the first run up, but was the limiting factor on the second time up (hotter day). My vehicle is an AWD Chevy Express. I know one Jeep Cherokee had to turn back due to tranny overheating.

Rattlesnakes: There is at least one in the rocks just above the camping; watch and listen when 'getting rid of your coffee'. Running on the dirt road, a climber on a rest day came very close to one. It's a good idea to keep a bite extractor kit with you. See photo - very center...

Jul 27, 2014
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
Some more approach beta can be found here. Aug 10, 2013
Jaren Watson
Boise, Idaho
Jaren Watson   Boise, Idaho
Thank you, Dave. I've included this info in the description. Jun 5, 2013
My guide "Idaho Underground" (2012) includes The Fins and a bunch of other Idaho crags. Jun 3, 2013

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