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Routes in The Head Wall

Al's Diner S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
And The Thunder Rolls S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bad Ass Weed (aka Line of Weakness) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Baked Potato S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bean Fiddler S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Spot S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Clips from the Bong S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Don't Stop Retrievin' S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghost in the Shell S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Koona S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Koona Kahuna S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Middle Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Munchies S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
S Curve S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Seven Arrows S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Standard Warm-Up S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Time Will Tell S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Two Hitter Quitter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Virgins of Howe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Warm up 1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Warm up 2 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
When Vegans Attack S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Rhino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Yukon Gold S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Erik Leidecker, equipped by Alex McMeekin
Page Views: 2,517 total · 44/month
Shared By: Jaren Watson on May 9, 2013 with updates
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Easier climbing on bigger holds lead to a marginal rest, then the crux at mid height where you can get settled on the 'shocker monos' (index and pinky) or a double set of marginal crimps. Either way you have to make a BIG move to a nice pocket to clip (big for me at 5'8", -2). Find your way through a multitude of interesting holds and either escape right of the bolt line in easier, but harder to read grey rock, or use the nice pockets up the face for a little harder finish.

Location

Just left of the cutoff stump and the start of Bean Fiddler, it skirts the right side of a wide blonde streak. This is the 7th route from the left.

Protection

8 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

Jikimika Dinglehoffer
Lander, Wy
  5.13a
Jikimika Dinglehoffer   Lander, Wy
  5.13a
Really nice rock and cool moves, but an awful lot of strange beta in this description! My recommendation: don't pinky mono (like ever?).
1. your middle finger will fit in the good one, while the adjacent "index mono" is a sloping dish. this puts all the load on your pinky if you try the beta as described!
2. there are way better ways to do this crux.
3. that kind of thing is reeeaealy bad for your hands (most people's pinky tendons are fragile and will not heal properly following rupture, ever. ask a physio if youre interested).

Difficulty of both cruxes is heavily height dependent. also: I only found one way to climb the finish and still clip the bolts. Sep 14, 2017
Bolted by Alex McMeekin. F.A. by Erik Leidecker after Al had to quit climbing because of injury. Aug 15, 2013