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Routes in The Head Wall

Al's Diner S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
And The Thunder Rolls S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bad Ass Weed (aka Line of Weakness) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Baked Potato S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bean Fiddler S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Spot S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Clips from the Bong S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Don't Stop Retrievin' S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghost in the Shell S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Koona S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Koona Kahuna S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Middle Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Munchies S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
S Curve S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Seven Arrows S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Standard Warm-Up S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Time Will Tell S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Two Hitter Quitter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Virgins of Howe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Warm up 1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Warm up 2 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
When Vegans Attack S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Rhino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Yukon Gold S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: EC, June 2016
Page Views: 448 total, 25/month
Shared By: EChristensen on Jun 4, 2016
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

A terrific direct finish to Yukon Gold. Clip the first six bolts of Yukon Gold to the giant pod hueco. Instead of heading up the right side of the pod to the shared anchor, continue up the left side of the pod past four more bolts of amazing climbing. The crux of the route is still at the fifth bolt, but the new finish is much more satisfying than the Yukon Gold finish.

Location

Begin on Yukon Gold, but continue straight up the left side of the giant pod after the sixth bolt.

Protection

10 bolts to ring anchors.

Photos

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R.Walters  
 
Awesome extension. I found it to be about equivalent in difficulty to the OG finish for White Rhino but with better (and more) climbing. Jun 28, 2017
Ian Cavanaugh
  5.12b
Ian Cavanaugh  
  5.12b
I see where you are are coming from. The routes you mention had previous anchors and stopping locations that the route was extended off of giving them a proper extension. There have also been several routes out there though that have received independent anchors as opposed to sharing but have retained the same name, being that it wasnt an extension but just an independent finish. Dinner Roll is one of those, used to share the anchors with Shaken and Yellow Man. Also every extension you have mentioned is more difficult than the original route, where this new direct finish is much easier, though better, than the original finish. Jul 5, 2016
EChristensen
Bozeman
 
EChristensen   Bozeman
 
I figure it's deserves a new name since everyone already knows Yukon Gold as finishing on the right anchor. That's how it's described in all the guides, including the newly updated Idaho Sweet Spots (which I would assume won't be updated again anytime soon). Also, there precedence for this at the Fins already - Koona Kahuna, the Munchies, Mission Control, etc... Jun 15, 2016
Ian Cavanaugh
  5.12b
Ian Cavanaugh  
  5.12b
So should we then just leave it as Yukon Gold rather than the new name? Jun 14, 2016
EChristensen
Bozeman
 
EChristensen   Bozeman
 
Thanks Ian. We were all wondering why it wasn't bolted with an independent finish in the first place. Much better climbing than the OG finish. Jun 13, 2016
Ian Cavanaugh
  5.12b
Ian Cavanaugh  
  5.12b
Great new finish. The climbing is very fun though seemed to be quite a bit easier than original finish. I did this via White Rhino as both Yukon Gold and White Rhino meet in the goat hole, much more enjoyable than climbing Yukon gold, in my opinion. Not sure this requires a new name as not a true extention but rather just a new independent finish for Yukon Gold. Well worth doing Jun 13, 2016