Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: EC, June 2016
Page Views: 691 total · 23/month
Shared By: EChristensen on Jun 4, 2016
Admins: Mike Engle

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

A terrific direct finish to Yukon Gold. Clip the first six bolts of Yukon Gold to the giant pod hueco. Instead of heading up the right side of the pod to the shared anchor, continue up the left side of the pod past four more bolts of amazing climbing. The crux of the route is still at the fifth bolt, but the new finish is much more satisfying than the Yukon Gold finish.

Location

Begin on Yukon Gold, but continue straight up the left side of the giant pod after the sixth bolt.

Protection

10 bolts to ring anchors.

Photos

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Ian Cavanaugh
  5.12b
Ian Cavanaugh  
  5.12b
Great new finish. The climbing is very fun though seemed to be quite a bit easier than original finish. I did this via White Rhino as both Yukon Gold and White Rhino meet in the goat hole, much more enjoyable than climbing Yukon gold, in my opinion. Not sure this requires a new name as not a true extention but rather just a new independent finish for Yukon Gold. Well worth doing Jun 13, 2016
EChristensen
Bozeman
  5.12b
EChristensen   Bozeman
  5.12b
Thanks Ian. We were all wondering why it wasn't bolted with an independent finish in the first place. Much better climbing than the OG finish. Jun 13, 2016
Ian Cavanaugh
  5.12b
Ian Cavanaugh  
  5.12b
So should we then just leave it as Yukon Gold rather than the new name? Jun 14, 2016
EChristensen
Bozeman
  5.12b
EChristensen   Bozeman
  5.12b
I figure it's deserves a new name since everyone already knows Yukon Gold as finishing on the right anchor. That's how it's described in all the guides, including the newly updated Idaho Sweet Spots (which I would assume won't be updated again anytime soon). Also, there precedence for this at the Fins already - Koona Kahuna, the Munchies, Mission Control, etc... Jun 15, 2016
Ian Cavanaugh
  5.12b
Ian Cavanaugh  
  5.12b
I see where you are are coming from. The routes you mention had previous anchors and stopping locations that the route was extended off of giving them a proper extension. There have also been several routes out there though that have received independent anchors as opposed to sharing but have retained the same name, being that it wasnt an extension but just an independent finish. Dinner Roll is one of those, used to share the anchors with Shaken and Yellow Man. Also every extension you have mentioned is more difficult than the original route, where this new direct finish is much easier, though better, than the original finish. Jul 5, 2016
R.Walters  
 
Awesome extension. I found it to be about equivalent in difficulty to the OG finish for White Rhino but with better (and more) climbing. Jun 28, 2017