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Routes in Psychedelic Rock

Another Brick in the Wall S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barracuda S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Hot Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Comfortably Numb S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't Bring Me Down S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Highway to Hell S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jumping Jack Flash S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Let it Burn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Matchhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Run Like Hell S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thriller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Total Eclipse S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turn to Stone S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Us and Them S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
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Description

Psychedelic Rock is a 200 foot crag that was originally part of the Burning Spear group. There are three original Dave Bingham routes in addition to the new routes being developed.

The rock has everything from smooth slabs to steeper pockets to steep chert pinching.

The wall has 3 distinct sections.

The left side of the wall is characterized by a broad slabby section with smooth grey limestone and the occasional pocket. There are a couple routes on this section.

The central portion is 200 feet tall and the lower section has 5 or 6 steep routes on featured limestone which all end on a broad grassy ledge. Above the ledge is a blank looking, hundred foot face that is actually peppered with chert. Named "The Wall", sustained, delicate face climbing and chert pinching is common to the 3 routes that start on the ledge (these are the 'Unsorted Routes' on the route navigation pane).

The right side has a prominent right facing dihedral that goes nearly to the summit and right of the dihedral is vertical, yellow and orange rock that has a significant overlap about midway up. Very featured but less than vertical grey rock continues above the overlap.

Getting There

Follow the directions for the approach to Mortal Earth. Psychedelic Rock is the first major crag encountered when arriving at Mortal Earth - about 15 minute hike from the parking.

The developed crags of Mortal Earth are visible from the parking, see the beta picture.

Check out the aerial overview for trail and crag location.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Psychedelic Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Highway to Hell
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Highway to Hell
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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