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Routes in 04. Psychedelic Rock

Another Brick in the Wall S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barracuda S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Hot Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Comfortably Numb S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't Bring Me Down S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Empty Spaces S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flaming (c)Lips, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Highway to Hell S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jumping Jack Flash S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Let it Burn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Matchhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Money S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Run Like Hell S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thriller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Total Eclipse S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turn to Stone S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Us and Them S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
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Elevation: 6,796 ft
GPS: 43.72, -113.077 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,245 total · 215/month
Shared By: Mike Engle on Jul 24, 2017
Admins: Mike Engle
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Description

Left side of Psychedelic Rock, the base area routes, and "The Wall".

Psychedelic Rock is a 200 foot crag that was originally part of the Burning Spear group. There are three original Dave Bingham routes in addition to the new routes being developed.

The crag has everything from smooth slabs to steeper pockets to steep chert pinching.

The wall has 3 distinct sections.

  1. The left side of the wall is characterized by a broad slabby section with smooth grey limestone and the occasional pocket. There are a few routes on this section.
  2. The central portion is 200 feet tall and from the ground there are 5 or 6 steep routes on featured limestone which all end on a broad grassy central ledge. Above the ledge is a blank looking, hundred foot face that is actually peppered with small chert. Named "The Wall", sustained, delicate face climbing and chert pinching is common to the 6 routes that start on the ledge (these are the 'Unsorted Routes' on the route navigation pane).
  3. The right side of the formation has a prominent right facing dihedral that goes nearly to the summit and to the right of the dihedral is vertical, yellow and orange rock that has a significant roof about midway up. Very featured vertical grey rock continues above the overlap.
Right side of the Psychedelic Rock formation.

Getting There

Follow the trail out of the parking lot, staying left at the fork. After Gateway Rock, Psychedelic Rock is the first major crag encountered.

See the trail map.

The developed crags of Mortal Earth are visible from the parking, see the beta picture.

For another perspective, check out the aerial overview for trail and crag location.

19 Total Climbs

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Location: 04. Psychedelic Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Psychedelic Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Don't Bring Me Down
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Us and Them
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Run Like Hell
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
Thriller
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Highway to Hell
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Turn to Stone
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Don't Bring Me Down
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Us and Them
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Run Like Hell
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Thriller
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Highway to Hell
 8
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Turn to Stone
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Psychedelic Rock »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: East
Sunny Roughly 6am to 1pm during high season
6am
8pm
Details: The protected alcove with the routes Total Eclipse, Thriller, and Jumping Jack Flash get shade about an hour earlier than the rest of the crag.

Weather Averages

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Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
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