Elevation: 6,796 ft
GPS: 43.72, -113.077 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 14,369 total · 294/month
Shared By: Mike Engle on Jul 24, 2017
Admins: Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle

Description

Left side of Psychedelic Rock, the base area routes, and "The Wall".

Psychedelic Rock is a 200 foot crag that was originally part of the Burning Spear group. There are three original Dave Bingham routes in addition to the new routes being developed.

The crag has everything from smooth slabs to steeper pockets to steep chert pinching.

The wall has 3 distinct sections.

  1. The left side of the wall is characterized by a broad slabby section with smooth grey limestone and the occasional pocket. There are a few routes on this section.
  2. The central portion is 200 feet tall and from the ground there are 5 or 6 steep routes on featured limestone which all end on a broad grassy central ledge. Above the ledge is a blank looking, hundred foot face that is actually peppered with small chert. Named "The Wall", sustained, delicate face climbing and chert pinching is common to the 6 routes that start on the ledge (these are the 'Unsorted Routes' on the route navigation pane).
  3. The right side of the formation has a prominent right facing dihedral that goes nearly to the summit and to the right of the dihedral is vertical, yellow and orange rock that has a significant roof about midway up. Very featured vertical grey rock continues above the overlap.
Right side of the Psychedelic Rock formation.

Getting There

Follow the trail out of the parking lot, staying left at the fork. After Gateway Rock, Psychedelic Rock is the first major crag encountered.

See the trail map.

The developed crags of Mortal Earth are visible from the parking, see the beta picture.

For another perspective, check out the aerial overview for trail and crag location.

19 Total Climbs

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Location: 05. Psychedelic Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Psychedelic Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Empty Spaces
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Time
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
The Flaming (c)Lips
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Don't Bring Me Down
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
Stairway to Heaven
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Another Brick in the Wall
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Us and Them
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Run Like Hell
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Total Eclipse
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Money
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Let it Burn
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 17
Highway to Hell
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 51
Thriller
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Matchhead
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 20
Turn to Stone
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Empty Spaces
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Time
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Flaming (c)Lips
 11
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Don't Bring Me Down
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Stairway to Heaven
 16
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Another Brick in the Wall
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Us and Them
 12
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Run Like Hell
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Total Eclipse
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Money
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Let it Burn
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Highway to Hell
 17
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Thriller
 51
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Matchhead
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Turn to Stone
 20
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Psychedelic Rock »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: East
Sunny Roughly 6am to 1pm during high season
6am
8pm
Details: The protected alcove with the routes Total Eclipse, Thriller, and Jumping Jack Flash get shade about an hour earlier than the rest of the crag.

Weather Averages

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Precip
 
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Prime Climbing Season
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