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Routes in 07. Psychedelic Rock
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Another Brick in the Wall S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Barracuda S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cajun Hot Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Comfortably Numb S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Don't Bring Me Down S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Empty Spaces S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Flaming (c)Lips, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Highway to Hell S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jumping Jack Flash S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Let it Burn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Maggot Brain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mahna Mahna S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Matchhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Money S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Run Like Hell S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thriller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Time S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Total Eclipse S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Turn to Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Us and Them S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Sport, 125 ft (38 m) |
| GPS: | 43.7201, -113.07682 |
| FA: | Chris Barnes Aug 2017, bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney,,& Mike Engle |
| Page Views: | 902 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Engle on Aug 28, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Description
The far right wall of Psychedelic Rock has a very prominent steep right facing corner with a crack. Start on a steep face and traverse left until you can establish a stem in the corner. Follow the corner/crack until the crack ends (about 80 feet). Face climb between discontinuous cracks for another 40 feet to the anchors just below the crest of the fin.
Long and sustained climb.
First climbed on the afternoon of the 2017 Total Eclipse.
Location
From the high point of the trail at the base of Psychedelic Rock, continue down 20 feet right before the trail climbs up again. Looking up and right there is a prominent arch/cave. The left side of Psychedelic Rock is a steep wall with a prominent overhang and a sweeping right facing corner/dihedral/crack system. Scramble up to a small staging area below the wall.
Total Eclipse is the leftmost route up the steep dihedral.
Protection
17 bolts. Chain anchors, 2 rope rappel to the ground is the recommended descent.
Note: it is possible to do a short rappel to the top of Thriller. From those sport anchors it is another rap to the ground on a single 60 meter rope.
Caution needed when clipping into sport anchors while on rappel. The sport anchor uses two 1/2 X 5" bolts. One bolt is used with chain, quick link, & steel carabiner and the second bolt is used with an open cold shut. Use an open cold shut only when weighted from below. Always use redundant tie in points at rap stations.
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