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Routes in Psychedelic Rock

Another Brick in the Wall S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barracuda S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Hot Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Comfortably Numb S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't Bring Me Down S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Highway to Hell S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jumping Jack Flash S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Let it Burn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Matchhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Run Like Hell S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thriller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Total Eclipse S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turn to Stone S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Us and Them S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 125 ft
FA: Chris Barnes Aug 2017, bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney,,& Mike Engle
Page Views: 56 total · 5/month
Shared By: Mike Engle on Aug 28, 2017
Admins: Mike Engle

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Description

The far right wall of Psychedelic Rock has a very prominent steep right facing corner with a crack. Start on a steep face and traverse left until you can establish a stem in the corner. Follow the corner/crack until the crack ends (about 80 feet). Face climb between discontinuous cracks for another 40 feet to the anchors just below the crest of the fin.

Long and sustained climb.

First climbed on the afternoon of the 2017 Total Eclipse.

Location

From the high point of the trail at the base of Psychedelic Rock, continue down 20 feet right before the trail climbs up again. Looking up and right there is a prominent arch/cave. The left side of Psychedelic Rock is a steep wall with a prominent overhang and a sweeping right facing corner/dihedral/crack system. Scramble up to a small staging area below the wall.

Total Eclipse is the leftmost route up the steep dihedral.

Protection

17 bolts. Chain anchors, 2 rope rappel to the ground is the recommended descent.

Note: it is possible to do a short rappel to the top of Thriller. From those sport anchors it is another rap to the ground on a single 60 meter rope.

Caution needed when clipping into sport anchors while on rappel. The sport anchor uses two 1/2 X 5" bolts. One bolt is used with chain, quick link, & steel carabiner and the second bolt is used with an open cold shut. Use an open cold shut only when weighted from below. Always use redundant tie in points at rap stations.

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