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Routes in 04. Psychedelic Rock

Another Brick in the Wall S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barracuda S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Hot Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Comfortably Numb S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't Bring Me Down S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Empty Spaces S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flaming (c)Lips, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Highway to Hell S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jumping Jack Flash S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Let it Burn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Matchhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Money S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Run Like Hell S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thriller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Total Eclipse S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turn to Stone S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Us and Them S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mike Engle and Jordan Allen, July 2017; bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle, July 2017
Page Views: 113 total · 8/month
Shared By: Mike Engle on Jul 24, 2017
Admins: Mike Engle

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Description

This is one of 6 routes that is accessed from the broad ledge below a broad steep face called "The Wall". Use one of 4 approach pitch options (Don't Bring Me Down, I Turn to Stone, Stairway to Heaven, or Barracuda) to gain chain anchors on a comfortable ledge.

Another Brick in the Wall starts just left of the chain anchors and climb continuous, steep thin chert staying right of an obvious alcove about half way up the 100 foot wall. The chert is strong but brittle, especially when wet.  Be careful to place feet on holds and don't kick them. The holds are half pad crimps to full on jugs. This is another thin, technical climb that is continuously engaging. Just before the second to last bolt you can make a move left and grab a good rail to ease the tension.

Location

The route starts 5 feet to the left of the chain anchors at the base of 'The Wall'.

See the beta picture for relative location.

Protection

13 bolts, chain anchors. Single rappel on a 60 meter rope gets you back to the ledge. Another single rappel on a 60 meter rope gets you back to the ground.

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