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Routes in 04. Psychedelic Rock

Another Brick in the Wall S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barracuda S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Hot Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Comfortably Numb S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't Bring Me Down S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Empty Spaces S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flaming (c)Lips, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Highway to Hell S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jumping Jack Flash S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Let it Burn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Matchhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Money S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Run Like Hell S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thriller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Total Eclipse S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turn to Stone S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Us and Them S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Mike & Linda Engle Aug 2017 bolted by Mike Engle and Chris Barnes
Page Views: 138 total · 12/month
Shared By: Mike Engle on Aug 28, 2017
Admins: Mike Engle

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Description

On the rightmost face of Psychedelic Rock, there is an attractive grey face next to an orange streak.

Face climb on chert until you get a mono. Begin moving up on increasingly larger pockets into yellow/brown rock and large overhang. Pull the overhang on mostly big holds and move into large alcove. The the top of the alcove traverse left a few feet over a shallow right facing corner. Continue up to a stance and work a vertical edge for a few more moves to the anchors.

Location

From the high point of the trail at the base of Psychedelic Rock, continue 20 feet down before the trail climbs up again. Looking up and right there is a prominent arch/cave. The left side of Psychedelic Rock is a steep wall with a prominent overhang and a sweeping right facing corner/dihedral/crack system. Scramble up to a small staging area below the wall.

Thriller is the center route that starts on a thin steep slab and continues to a prominent crack through overhanging rock.

Protection

12 bolts. Sport anchor. Single 60 meter rope will get you back to the ground.

Photos

Tommy F
Golden, CO
Tommy F   Golden, CO
Great route combining lots of fun climbing. Be wary: Microwave sized block above the steep section that's suspect. Easy to dance around, but if someone brought a crowbar up there to clean up the route it could turn into a classic at mortal earth. May 27, 2018

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