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Routes in Northern Buttress

All Systems Go T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Centaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pulpit Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Raspberry Jam and Crackers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: R. Muhlen, B. Kennedy, 1976.
Page Views: 25 total, 3/month
Shared By: David Stephenson on Mar 31, 2017
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Description

One of the better grade 18 pitches on the Pipes. Start up the short crack just left of the Pulpit. After 3m move diagonally left up the flakes to a small ledge. Climb up the smooth wall to the horizontal under the bulge, then move back right to the top of the Pulpit. Up the wall just right of the short shallow corner for 3m to reach a small flake crack that takes micro cams. Move left around the arĂȘte (crux) onto the face at the base of a finger crack. Either climb the dark streaked recess on the left up to a small roof, then undercling out right beneath this, or go straight up the finger crack to join the right hand end of the small roof. Continue up the crack past a ledge then follow a hand crack to the DB rap station (32m).

Location

Climb starts just to the left of Pulpit Chimney, the second chimney as you walk up along the Buttress. The first is Andromeda, the second Pulpit Chimney, the third is The Chasm. 32m rap from DB anchor - a doubled 60m rope will just reach with stretch.

Protection

Standard rack of cams and wires. Double ropes are very useful due to the wandering nature of the initial section of the climb. With a single rope, it is probably better to climb the Pulpit to reach the crux section, although this is not quite as good. DB anchor at top.

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