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Routes in Northern Buttress

All Systems Go T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Centaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pulpit Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Raspberry Jam and Crackers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 225 ft, 2 pitches
FA: T. Christie, G. Wyatt, 1964
Page Views: 346 total, 4/month
Shared By: LanceSullins on Jun 16, 2011 with updates
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Description

Great casual climbing with very straightforward protection and less exposed feel. It is possible to get down with one rope by rapping off the back side of the feature rather than down into the Chasm.
Pitch 1: Climb directly up the chimney past the detached chockstones to a ledge below the Canopy Chockstone. Move R onto the face and mantelshelf up onto a ledge from where the chockstone can be surmounted - a committing but easy move.
Pitch 2: Continue up onto the ridge to easier climbing and scramble to the summit consisting of a large block. There is a ton of space so I built and anchor then scrambled unroped up to the rap anchors.

Location

Start in the obvious chimney just downhill from The Chasm.

Protection

Standard rack up to #3 c4.

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