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Routes in Northern Buttress

All Systems Go T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Centaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pulpit Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Raspberry Jam and Crackers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 157 ft
FA: A. Cross, R. Lawson, et al, Nov. 1965
Page Views: 449 total, 4/month
Shared By: Byron Murray on Mar 23, 2008
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Description

A Pipes classic. This fine direct line starts midway between Pegasus and The Chasm. Climb up on face holds to foot of a black groove, and continue straight up the ever steepening crack past chockstone (crux) just below the belay at top.

Location

Descent: A memorable 45m abseil from the rap station (backed up 2007) at the top of Buttress Pinnacle descends in devious fashion through some large chockstones and directly down the Chasm. Alternatively (and much less appealing) is a 25m abseil down to the southern side of the Buttress from the rap station and scramble down into Chockstone Gully: a notorious place to get your ropes jammed.

Protection

Standard Rack plus double rope for abseil

Photos

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