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Routes in Northern Buttress

All Systems Go T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Centaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pulpit Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Raspberry Jam and Crackers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 92 ft
FA: G. Body, B. Kennedy, L. Closs, Dec 1972.
Page Views: 22 total, 3/month
Shared By: David Stephenson on Mar 31, 2017
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Description

Lovely face climbing on the wall left of Andromeda, this is one of the better grade 18 pitches on the Pipes. Climb the newly exposed rock in the right-facing corner past a dubious fixed pin (can be backed up with a good wire) then hand-traverse left and up to a left-facing flake system. Climb delicately up the thin face above (crux) to a small ledge at the base of a short corner. Climb the corner past another small ledge and finish up the short crack above.

Location

Start near the toe of Northern Buttress. This is the first route you encounter as you walk up the Sunny (north facing) Side. Abseil from DB rap station (28m). It is also possible to scramble off around the corner on the Dark Side.

Protection

Protection is spaced, but good. Standard set of cams and wires, DB anchor at top

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