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Routes in Purgatory

Believer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dracula '04 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fallen Angel T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Man's Misery T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gimp, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gluttony S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hellraiser S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jumbo Shrimp S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Paradise Lost S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Special Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jason Haas, Matt Tackett
Page Views: 138 total, 14/month
Shared By: billysimek on Feb 19, 2017
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the large ramp on one of the biggest boulders of choss you'll encounter at the Red, using the left offwidth and whatever hasn't already eroded off on the right. Once reaching the top of the ramp, gingerly hug the soft, flaky pile of sandstone and be sure not to rain down any choss blocks onto your belayer or other nearby souls wondering why you decided to climb this. Upon summitting this unstable conglomerate, build an anchor in any somewhat-decent rock you can find. If you convinced somebody else to follow you (good luck), belay them up here. Now for the money pitch. Locate the light at the end of the tunnel (or cave in this instance), and begin crawling through the narrow opening in the cliff. Squirm your way through dirt, spiderwebs, animal feces, and more choss until you reach the opening of the aptly named Devil's Window. Peer to your left and take a sigh of relief as you lay eyes on two anchors bolted firmly into some legitimate Corbin sandstone. Go in direct, and rebirth yourself out of the opening, releasing as few pieces of broken rock down the slab below as possible. Rest easy, put your partner on belay, and laugh at them as they struggle their way through. After rappelling back to solid ground, think to yourself about all the world-class climbs the Red has to offer, then recall what you just experienced. Pretty amazing, huh?

Location

Locate the large orange/yellow ramp with an offwidth on its left side. Fat Man's Misery shares a starting bolt with Gluttony then follows the ramp to the cave entrance.

Protection

1 bolt shared with Gluttony and some protection in the offwidth. The shallow, flaring crack up the middle provides little solace for any protection you thought may be placed. The guidebook says a #5 Camalot might be of assistance for the belay.

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