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Elevation: 1,090 ft
GPS: 37.65343, -83.70746
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 36,608 total · 210/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Oct 19, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek

Description Suggest change

Morning sun.

Many of the routes are climbable in the rain.

A couple of 5.10's, a couple of 5.11's, a couple of 5.12-'s, 3 5.13b's and one of the hardest routes in the gorge, Lucifer 5.14c.

Very pretty wall but a long walk in. There are not many routes to choose from so if you show up and there are a bunch of people there you may want to head to one of the other areas that are near by.

Getting There Suggest change

Follow the signs from the parking area. Once you are on the road it tapers to a trail once you are past most of the areas and you have to cross two little drainages on this trail before you turn up left ot the cliff which is signed.

Once you reach the wall, there are a few trad lines to the left but most of the routes are to the right, through a small archway formed by the wall and a boulder.

18 Total Climbs

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Location: Purgatory Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Purgatory

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 4
Fat Man's Misery
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 39
[Redacted]
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 119
Believer
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Skunk Love
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 61
Special Boy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 72
Gluttony
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 42
Hellraiser
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 53
Paradise Lost
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 17
Dracula '04
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 11
The Castle Has Fallen
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fat Man's Misery
 4
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
[Redacted]
 39
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Believer
 119
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Skunk Love
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Special Boy
 61
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Gluttony
 72
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Hellraiser
 42
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Paradise Lost
 53
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Dracula '04
 17
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
The Castle Has Fallen
 11
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Purgatory »

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