Description

Morning sun.

Many of the routes are climbable in the rain.

A couple of 5.10's, a couple of 5.11's, a couple of 5.12-'s, 3 5.13b's and one of the hardest routes in the gorge, Lucifer 5.14c.

Very pretty wall but a long walk in. Not likely to be crowded but if it is there are not many routes to choose from so if you show up and there arer a bunch of people there you may want ot head back to one of the other areas that are near by.

Getting There

Follow the signs from the parking area. Once you are on the road it tapers to a trail once you are past most of the areas and you have to cross two little drainages on this tril before you turn up left ot the cliff which is signed.

Once you reach the wall, there are a few trad lines to the left but most of the routes arer to the right, through a tunnel formed by the wall and a boulder.

10 Total Climbs

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Location: Purgatory Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Purgatory

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 47
Believer
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 23
Special Boy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 31
Gluttony
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 17
Hellraiser
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 15
Paradise Lost
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
Dracula '04
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Believer
 47
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Special Boy
 23
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Gluttony
 31
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Hellraiser
 17
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Paradise Lost
 15
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Dracula '04
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Purgatory »

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