Elevation: 1,090 ft
GPS: 37.653, -83.707 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 28,574 total · 194/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Oct 19, 2009
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek

Description

Morning sun.

Many of the routes are climbable in the rain.

A couple of 5.10's, a couple of 5.11's, a couple of 5.12-'s, 3 5.13b's and one of the hardest routes in the gorge, Lucifer 5.14c.

Very pretty wall but a long walk in. Not likely to be crowded but if it is there are not many routes to choose from so if you show up and there arer a bunch of people there you may want ot head back to one of the other areas that are near by.

Getting There

Follow the signs from the parking area. Once you are on the road it tapers to a trail once you are past most of the areas and you have to cross two little drainages on this tril before you turn up left ot the cliff which is signed.

Once you reach the wall, there are a few trad lines to the left but most of the routes arer to the right, through a tunnel formed by the wall and a boulder.

13 Total Climbs

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Location: Purgatory Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Purgatory

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 33
The Gimp
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 86
Believer
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 39
Special Boy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 55
Gluttony
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 32
Hellraiser
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 39
Paradise Lost
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 10
Dracula '04
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
The Castle Has Fallen
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Gimp
 33
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Believer
 86
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Special Boy
 39
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Gluttony
 55
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Hellraiser
 32
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Paradise Lost
 39
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Dracula '04
 10
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
The Castle Has Fallen
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
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