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Routes in Purgatory

Believer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dracula '04 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fallen Angel T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Man's Misery T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gimp, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gluttony S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hellraiser S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jumbo Shrimp S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Paradise Lost S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Special Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Kenny Barker 2004
Page Views: 4,247 total · 40/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Oct 19, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Move up into a right facing flake that is the route The Castle Has Fallen. At the second bolt start moving right across the face with long moves on good hold or shorter moves using some of the smaller holds. Eventually get to a rest on a small ledge. Head back onto the arete that you just turned and climb the 25 foot section on side pulls, pockets and crimps that thin as you get higher. A couple of very long moves right at the top after the angle relents takes you to the anchors.

Location

This route climbs the right arete of the main section of wall just left of the big ampatheatre.

Protection

Bolts to a bolted anchor.

Photos

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
An amazing climb, one of my favorites I've done at RRG, or anywhere for that matter. The holds are an amazing combination of pockets, crimps, pinches, and underclings. And it is one of the most picturesque climbs as well.

Now downgraded to 13a if you use the no hands rest below the 4th? bolt. which judging from chalk alot of people do. I used it as it made sense to downclimb two moves and stand on the ledge rather than have my feet a foot above it while resting. If you want 13b credit then the ledge should be avoided.

An extension "Paradise Regained" continues above the no hands rest at the anchors. It is rumored to be a stiff 13b on its own. Nov 21, 2011

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