Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Purgatory

Believer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dracula '04 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fallen Angel T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Man's Misery T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gimp, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gluttony S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hellraiser S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jumbo Shrimp S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Paradise Lost S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Special Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Kenny Barker - 2005
Page Views: 2,924 total, 30/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Oct 28, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Very technical climbing to start up the offset seam, you really have to trust some bad feet and get the hand sequence right. The holds get much better at the mini roof and 3rd bolt. Move left to a flake feature then up and back right to a rest jug. Clip your last bolt and make a couple of long moves up to an obvious pocket, your foot is now at the bottom of your last draw. Start the upper crux by punching out to the arete and slapping your way up and around to jugs above and left of the anchors. If you blow it you can take a huge ride.

How often do you get to take a 50 foot fall on a 60 foot route?

Location

This is the left most route on the main section of wall and starts up an off set seam that forms a small left facing corner.

Protection

6 bolts and a bolted anchor.
Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13b/c
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13b/c
vimeo.com/78018419 Apr 12, 2016
FYI, a bolt was added to protect the top run out portion of the climb. Mar 28, 2012
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
For me personally Paradise Lost is the better "looking" line (just something about arete's) but the movement on Dracula '04 was more interesting. Mar 13, 2010
Blake Cash
Chattanooga, TN
  5.13b
Blake Cash   Chattanooga, TN
  5.13b
Brilliant Route. 5 stars on a 4 star scale. Even better part of this route is the hoards of people lining up to climb Paradise Lost and leaving me alone to climb it's much better more aesthetic neighbor. Best route I've been on in the Red. Mar 10, 2010