Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Honnold-(variation, 2010) U. Rousseau- (direct, 2011?)
Page Views: 662 total · 26/month
Shared By: Phil Lauffen on Dec 31, 2016
Admins: Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

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Access Issue: Ancient Petroglyphs Details

Description

This route involves engaging face climbing on crimps, with some of the hardest moves off the ground, passing through all 7 circles of hell, culminating in a heart-rending crux face at 95 feet. This climb has it all and should be on the visiting climber's list... if you dare.

Step off the ground and pass the ghost of Rousseau who dares all to enter Hades without the use of a stick-clip (use a stick-clip!).

Pass the ghost of Honnold, who by entering a tufa system out left skipped a energy-sapping extended cross move and robbed himself of the full experience (and still called it 13d).

At the hardest single move, deadpoint past the ghosts of those who did not train power before their trip to Mexico.

At the redpoint crux, watch the souls of those who did not rehearse their beta well enough trip, rip and wail past you into the void.

At the jug at the last bolt, ignore those voices of doubt, calm thy nerves and paste your feet upon those slippery nubs.

Leave eternal damnation and exit through the slippery navel of satan.

Location

The beautiful long, grey face to the right of Tufa King Short and left of El Camino. Opposing sidepulls start the route.

Protection

Bolts. But don't expect a clip up through the engaging runout crimps.

Photos

James Ellis
Seattle, Washington
James Ellis   Seattle, Washington
This route description is a work of art. Jan 4, 2018