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Infierno del Dante

5.13c, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 4 from 14 votes
FA: Honnold-(variation, 2010) U. Rousseau- (direct, 2011?)
International > N America > Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Salto > Las Animas Wall
Warning Access Issue: Ancient Petroglyphs DetailsDrop down

Description

This route involves engaging face climbing on crimps, with some of the hardest moves off the ground, passing through all 7 circles of hell, culminating in a heart-rending crux face at 95 feet. This climb has it all and should be on the visiting climber's list... if you dare.

Step off the ground and pass the ghost of Rousseau who dares all to enter Hades without the use of a stick-clip (use a stick-clip!).

Pass the ghost of Honnold, who by entering a tufa system out left skipped a energy-sapping extended cross move and robbed himself of the full experience (and still called it 13d).

At the hardest single move, deadpoint past the ghosts of those who did not train power before their trip to Mexico.

At the redpoint crux, watch the souls of those who did not rehearse their beta well enough trip, rip and wail past you into the void.

At the jug at the last bolt, ignore those voices of doubt, calm thy nerves and paste your feet upon those slippery nubs.

Leave eternal damnation and exit through the slippery navel of satan.

Location

The beautiful long, grey face to the right of Tufa King Short and left of El Camino. Opposing sidepulls start the route.

Protection

Bolts. But don't expect a clip up through the engaging runout crimps.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Remy Franklin on the sustained middle-upper section of Dante's (before extension)
[Hide Photo] Remy Franklin on the sustained middle-upper section of Dante's (before extension)
Passing through the 7th circle
[Hide Photo] Passing through the 7th circle
Remy Franklin contemplating the engaging right-hand throw to a jug at the first set of anchors. Continue 8 bolts past one more crux move to finish the extension at 14a. Photo: Jake Sahl
[Hide Photo] Remy Franklin contemplating the engaging right-hand throw to a jug at the first set of anchors. Continue 8 bolts past one more crux move to finish the extension at 14a. Photo: Jake Sahl

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

James Ellis
Bellingham, WA
[Hide Comment] This route description is a work of art. Jan 4, 2018
michalm
 
[Hide Comment] The first anchor has been fitted with durable lower off hardware courtesy of the ASCA. To support work like this, donate today at safeclimbing.org Feb 1, 2020