Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 194 total · 5/month
Shared By: WMcD on Jan 7, 2016
Admins: Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Ancient Petroglyphs Details

Description

Start on obvious large holds just right of the large Dirty Gray Tufa. Large holds through the first two or three bolts leads to the crux. Negotiate cool and inobvious sidepulling through pockets, crimps and tufas to a good rest. Sustained crimping leads to the chains. This one is worth your time.

Location

Located on the right side of the Animas wall above where the road hits the wall. This route starts on obvious large jugs and is the first route to the right of the obvious Dirty Gray Tufa.

Protection

Bolts to chains with fixed biners. Apparently there is an extension which I did not climb.

Photos

Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
5.12+
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
5.12+
Hard and inobvious Jan 19, 2017
Jim Lawyer

  5.12d
Jim Lawyer    
  5.12d
I found this very hard for the grade, despite a very friendly appearance from the ground. Another climber told me that he went far right down low, then back left to climb the tufa to bypass the crux section. The bolts and chalk tell a different story, though, and if you adhere strictly to the line, it's nails hard. I thought the tufa to the left, since it's bolted as a separate route, was "off", but maybe that's how you keep it at the grade.

Oh yeah, and we TRed "Dirty Gray Tufa" and it's a P.O.S.

Also, I recommend stick clipping. The clip jug (for the first bolt) came off in my hand. Feb 1, 2019