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> Central-E Casca…
> Leavenworth
> Icicle Creek
> Icicle Buttress…
> Icicle Buttress
Canadians On Horseback
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2.4 from 133
votes
Routes in Icicle Buttress
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Andrew Said It Doesn’t Count V0 4 |
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Arch Enemy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Arch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bumper Belay S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Canadians On Horseback S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cocaine Connection S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cocaine Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crumble Pie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Forking Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Good Gravy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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I Didn't Exhale S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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R & D T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ramp, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spaghetti Sauce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tober T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Kurt Hicks, 2013 |
| Page Views: | 11,200 total · 109/month |
| Shared By: | kurthicks on Oct 10, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Canadians on Horseback is a fully bolted sport climb on the right edge of Icicle Buttress. It was equipped for climbers new to multi-pitch climbing and is bolted for the 5.6 leader. Although it is possible to link pitches on this route, it is best done in four pitches with the last being the highlight.
Pitch 1: Climb up and left on low-angle grey rock to join the finishing moves of Bumper Belay at a ledge with a fixed anchor. 70’, 7 bolts. 5.6
Pitch 2: Walk left across a grassy ledge to an anchor. Pull onto the knobby slab and follow it to a nice ledge with an anchor. 80’, 7 bolts. 5.6
Pitch 3: Step left from the belay and make a tricky move into easier terrain. Continue up to an anchor at an overlap. 70’, 3 bolts. Low 5th class
Pitch 4: Delight in the golden slab above to an anchor at a small stance. 95’, 9 bolts. 5.6
Descent: It is possible to rappel straight down via four single rope rappels. An easier last rappel—which is sharp and overhanging—is to traverse along the grassy ledge back to the first pitch anchor and do the last rap from there.
Pitch 1: Climb up and left on low-angle grey rock to join the finishing moves of Bumper Belay at a ledge with a fixed anchor. 70’, 7 bolts. 5.6
Pitch 2: Walk left across a grassy ledge to an anchor. Pull onto the knobby slab and follow it to a nice ledge with an anchor. 80’, 7 bolts. 5.6
Pitch 3: Step left from the belay and make a tricky move into easier terrain. Continue up to an anchor at an overlap. 70’, 3 bolts. Low 5th class
Pitch 4: Delight in the golden slab above to an anchor at a small stance. 95’, 9 bolts. 5.6
Descent: It is possible to rappel straight down via four single rope rappels. An easier last rappel—which is sharp and overhanging—is to traverse along the grassy ledge back to the first pitch anchor and do the last rap from there.
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