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Routes in Icicle Buttress

Arch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bumper Belay S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Canadians On Horseback S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cocaine Connection S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cocaine Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Forking Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Didn't Exhale S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R & D T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ramp, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spaghetti Sauce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tober T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Kurt Hicks, 2013
Page Views: 1,019 total, 71/month
Shared By: kurthicks on Oct 10, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Canadians on Horseback is a fully bolted sport climb on the right edge of Icicle Buttress. It was equipped for climbers new to multi-pitch climbing and is bolted for the 5.6 leader. Although it is possible to link pitches on this route, it is best done in four pitches with the last being the highlight.

Pitch 1: Climb up and left on low-angle grey rock to join the finishing moves of Bumper Belay at a ledge with a fixed anchor. 70’, 7 bolts. 5.6

Pitch 2: Walk left across a grassy ledge to an anchor. Pull onto the knobby slab and follow it to a nice ledge with an anchor. 80’, 7 bolts. 5.6

Pitch 3: Step left from the belay and make a tricky move into easier terrain. Continue up to an anchor at an overlap. 70’, 3 bolts. Low 5th class

Pitch 4: Delight in the golden slab above to an anchor at a small stance. 95’, 9 bolts. 5.6

Descent: It is possible to rappel straight down via four single rope rappels. An easier last rappel—which is sharp and overhanging—is to traverse along the grassy ledge back to the first pitch anchor and do the last rap from there.

Location

Begin on the very right edge of Icicle Buttress--about 30 feet right of Bumper Belay. Scramble up a dirty path to a small ledge with a belay bolt.

Protection

9 quickdraws, 60 meter rope

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