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Routes in Icicle Buttress

Arch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bumper Belay S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Canadians On Horseback S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cocaine Connection S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cocaine Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Forking Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Didn't Exhale S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R & D T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ramp, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spaghetti Sauce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tober T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,031 total, 21/month
Shared By: Tom Bath on Nov 3, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Friction climbing up the obvious slab on the left side of the buttress. The climb starts with a crux traverse and then eases up above.
A good approach for Cocaine Crack or alternate start to R&D.
Two ropes are needed to rappel from the 1st anchor.

Protection

bolts

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.7
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.7
I will add that there used to be an older route starting at about the same place, but went straight up the 1st slab and had two rusty old bolt/hangers- probably what M. Straub was on.
I have seen biners on the upper bolt before, left when someone realized they were not on the " connection". So maybe that is why the Connection route traverses over to the right. I usually skip the one bolt that is low and left or use long slings. Feb 11, 2014
Ryan Canfield
North Bend, WA
  5.7
Ryan Canfield   North Bend, WA
  5.7
I agree with sqwirll as well. The bolt placements are bad. Oct 12, 2013
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
Add my vote to what Sqwirll said. The bolt placements seem to take you where you don't want to go and can create some awful rope drag. The second time I did this route I found it easier to skip a few of the bolts; the runout was more palatable than making the awkward moves to clip all the bolts and deal with the resulting rope drag. Sep 24, 2011
Mark Straub
Berkeley, CA
 
Mark Straub   Berkeley, CA
 
I only saw two bolts, so I ran it out to the #3 crack. That works fine. Much better start to R&D than the standard scrambling, though. Jun 13, 2010
Tom Bath
Kent, Wa
 
Tom Bath   Kent, Wa
 
I agree sqwirll. The route traverses at the start when a more direct line would be easier and just as clean. I can only assume that when the route was put up there was some vegetation or dirt that forced the climb to take the existing route. Dec 21, 2009
sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
sqwirll   Las Vegas
 
The bolt line on this seems illogical compared to where you want to climb. Dec 21, 2009