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Routes in Icicle Buttress

Arch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bumper Belay S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Canadians On Horseback S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cocaine Connection S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cocaine Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crumble Pie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Forking Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Didn't Exhale S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R & D T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ramp, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spaghetti Sauce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tober T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Webster and Mike, early 80s
Page Views: 2,535 total · 23/month
Shared By: Tom Bath on Nov 3, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Friction climbing up the obvious slab on the left side of the buttress. The climb starts with a crux traverse and then eases up above.
A good approach for Cocaine Crack or alternate start to R&D.
Two ropes are needed to rappel from the 1st anchor.

Protection

bolts

Photos

sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
sqwirll   Las Vegas
 
The bolt line on this seems illogical compared to where you want to climb. Dec 21, 2009
Tom Bath
Kent, Wa
  5.7
Tom Bath   Kent, Wa
  5.7
I agree sqwirll. The route traverses at the start when a more direct line would be easier and just as clean. I can only assume that when the route was put up there was some vegetation or dirt that forced the climb to take the existing route. Dec 21, 2009
Mark Straub
Berkeley, CA
 
Mark Straub   Berkeley, CA
 
I only saw two bolts, so I ran it out to the #3 crack. That works fine. Much better start to R&D than the standard scrambling, though. Jun 13, 2010
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
Add my vote to what Sqwirll said. The bolt placements seem to take you where you don't want to go and can create some awful rope drag. The second time I did this route I found it easier to skip a few of the bolts; the runout was more palatable than making the awkward moves to clip all the bolts and deal with the resulting rope drag. Sep 24, 2011
Ryan Canfield
North Bend, WA
  5.7
Ryan Canfield   North Bend, WA
  5.7
I agree with sqwirll as well. The bolt placements are bad. Oct 12, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.7
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.7
I will add that there used to be an older route starting at about the same place, but went straight up the 1st slab and had two rusty old bolt/hangers- probably what M. Straub was on.
I have seen biners on the upper bolt before, left when someone realized they were not on the " connection". So maybe that is why the Connection route traverses over to the right. I usually skip the one bolt that is low and left or use long slings. Feb 11, 2014
mark webster
Gig Harbor
mark webster   Gig Harbor
When Mike and I put up this route in the early 80's we led it from the ground up with a hand drill and a wire brush, no pre-inspection or rappelling. That style of putting up routes is famous for badly placed bolts. You can only drill for 20 minutes if you have a knob to stand on. It jogs around because we were trying to get over toward the right where there is a long unbroken slab of gentle knobs. It is Darrington style climbing, the bolts are (mostly) where they need to be for the 5.7 moves. However the 5.4 climbing has 30 to 40 foot runnouts. I have discussed adding more bolts to make it safer, but the climbing community at large seems to like it as is. Someone replaced our original 1/4" bolts a few years ago with much nicer modern bolts. I led it today, and found it to be very fun, but heady during the runnouts. After the first bolt, you climb up the little open book until it peters out. At that point you are looking horizontally to the right about 10 feet to a bolt. You can place a 3/8" cam (blue metolious) in a horizontal seam to protect the move to the bolt. A couple bolts up there is a long 30' traverse up and right to the next bolt. This is where I've always thought another bolt should go. The second pitch has only two bolts, and would benefit from at least a few more. If the consensus on the bolts has changed, I'd be happy to add more. I've actually backed off this route a few times when I'm rusty at friction climbing. Sep 18, 2018

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