A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Canadians on Horseback is a fully bolted sport climb on the right edge of Icicle Buttress. It was equipped for climbers new to multi-pitch climbing and is bolted for the 5.6 leader. Although it is possible to link pitches on this route, it is best done in four pitches with the last being the highlight.
Pitch 1: Climb up and left on low-angle grey rock to join the finishing moves of Bumper Belay at a ledge with a fixed anchor. 70’, 7 bolts. 5.6
Pitch 2: Walk left across a grassy ledge to an anchor. Pull onto the knobby slab and follow it to a nice ledge with an anchor. 80’, 7 bolts. 5.6
Pitch 3: Step left from the belay and make a tricky move into easier terrain. Continue up to an anchor at an overlap. 70’, 3 bolts. Low 5th class
Pitch 4: Delight in the golden slab above to an anchor at a small stance. 95’, 9 bolts. 5.6
Descent: It is possible to rappel straight down via four single rope rappels. An easier last rappel—which is sharp and overhanging—is to traverse along the grassy ledge back to the first pitch anchor and do the last rap from there.
Location
Begin on the very right edge of Icicle Buttress--about 30 feet right of Bumper Belay. Scramble up a dirty path to a small ledge with a belay bolt.
[Hide Photo] Photo of the route. Climbers are on the first pitch and rappellers are on the second pitch. Anchors indicated.
[Hide Photo] Canadians on Horseback from across the road.
[Hide Photo] Note that all but the left side P1 anchors are vertical, not horizontal, so re equalize your anchors accordingly!! Pictured here are the P2 anchors.
[Hide Photo] K headed up the first pitch, good slabby angle but rock isn't glassy. Eyes out for the swallows in spring.
[Hide Photo] Victor's first multi in Lev! Got a nice weather window in during a rainy summer day.
[Hide Photo] View while rapping down in the light rain. Linked the 3rd and 4th pitches no problem with a 70m rope.
[Hide Photo] Anchor bolts at the top of P1. Lowest bolt was a little loose. Bolt with the chain was great. Upper bolt is bent. 11/3/2019
[Hide Photo] Climber on the last pitch of Canadians on Horseback. Icicle Creek is below.
[Hide Comment] Fun route, can be done in 3 pitches. Crumble Pie 5.9 is a separate route that is a direct start through the "sharp and overhanging" slabby roofs left of I Didn't Exhale.
Apr 22, 2018
[Hide Comment] Did this on 4/20/19. At the top of the first pitch there are 3 bolts before crossing the grassy ledge. If memory serves me correctly there are two regular bolt hangers (one with a rap ring), and a hanger with a chain/rap ring. Two of the nuts on the bolts were backed almost all the way off. I didn't have anything to tighten them, so I skipped this station. You can climb straight over to the belay at the left side of the grassy traverse, which is right below the start of pitch 2. The downside is belaying from here drags your rope through the soft grass, and the road/river noise makes it really hard to communicate with your partner. You also can't visually see them from this perch (if that matters to you).
Apr 22, 2019
[Hide Comment] Recommend including the "Walk left across a grassy ledge to an anchor" as a part of pitch 1 since, as Ryan notes below, the nuts on the first anchor are backed out. This traverse takes you right to a possibly more solid anchor and is a great place to start pitch 2.
Aug 23, 2020
[Hide Comment] Definitely traverse to left anchors at top of P1. Linked pitch 2 and 3 together, flowed well and made a lot of sense. Most of the route except for the last pitch is very sandy/dirty.
Sep 1, 2020
[Hide Comment] Nice, convenient and moderate route that wouldn’t be a poor choice for a first multi-pitch climb for a beginner climber or a beginning leader. I’d give it 4/5 for a route to bring a novice on only because the first three pitches were a little sandy and required slab climbing with little good handholds that may dismay a novice. Other than that, nice belay ledges, very well-bolted, and located right next to the road. This would be a nice intro to slab climbing. The top three anchors are set up in such a manner that a master carabiner is all that is required for anchor set up if the leader so chooses.
Sep 21, 2020
[Hide Comment] Needed something to do outside that didn’t involve a hike….
Looks like I started on Crumble Pie, had to cut right (onto the actual route) to avoid what looked like an unprotected 5.9+ plus beached whale onto a slab move - maybe I didn’t see the piton. P2 and 3 are covered in loose sand, I wouldn’t send a novice leader up them. P4 is better. I don’t know why you would climb this in more than 2 pitches unless you’re teaching someone.
[Hide Comment] I just tightened up a lot of the loose bolts; the ones with compression washers I couldn't budge, so someone else will have to take care of those (but also, they're probably not going anywhere).
Aug 17, 2023
[Hide Comment] Fun route, a little mental for us new to slab multi leaders, but very nicely bolted. I hadn’t climbed in Leavenworth before so I’d say the grades here are more similar to Squamish slab versus North Bend slab. Beautiful climb and the approach can’t be beat!
Apr 6, 2024
Avg: 2.4 from 116
votes
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
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Silverdale, WA
Leavenworth, WA
Salt Lake City, UT
Looks like I started on Crumble Pie, had to cut right (onto the actual route) to avoid what looked like an unprotected 5.9+ plus beached whale onto a slab move - maybe I didn’t see the piton. P2 and 3 are covered in loose sand, I wouldn’t send a novice leader up them. P4 is better. I don’t know why you would climb this in more than 2 pitches unless you’re teaching someone.
Excellent sunbathing opportunity. Aug 30, 2022
Cleveland, OH
Seattle, WA
Bellingham, WA