Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 13,150 total · 113/month
Shared By: Tom Bath on Oct 26, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


174 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The route starts 100+ feet above the road on the left side of the crag. Follow a slab/corner 15ft to a short chimney and traverse right around a large block to the 1st belay. Follow blocky terrain with fun moves mixed in towards the chimney to the right of an obvious arching crack (Cocaine Crack) splitting the smooth face on the left. Head up the chimmey to a large ledge below several short seep cracks the rightmost of which is the easiest. Above here follow slabs and low angle cracks to the top.
Descent: Follow cairns up and to the left before heading into the descent gully.

Protection

Gear to 3".

Photos

Rob C.
Freeport, ME
 
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
 
Fun, easy to protect. Nice way to get pretty far above the canyon road! Aug 22, 2011
PhillR
  5.5
PhillR  
  5.5
Almost 90% of the route feels really easy (5.4-5.5), just a few 5.6 moves. Great for a beginning multi-pitch leader. Jan 29, 2013
jeb013
Portland
jeb013   Portland
For the decent there are now rap rings at the top that take you to the ledge above cocaine crack. Another anchor will take you to a ledge and then into the decent gully (this anchor does not have rings, you will need to bring sling/rap ring). This saves a lot of effort on the walk off. Aug 19, 2013
Fossman
  5.6
Fossman  
  5.6
Fun and easy! Great route for beginning trad leaders. May 19, 2015
Ben Stabley
Portland, OR
  5.6
Ben Stabley   Portland, OR
  5.6
Fun route! We did Cocaine Connection to start, and in sum got a nice mix of slab, chimney, and crack climbing. Takes protection very well. Walk down from the top was really no problem. Dec 10, 2015
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
 
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
 
fun little ROADSIDE climb. Great for building confidence as a new trad leader. I only gave it two stars because it lacks exposure, the whole time I hardly felt like I left the ground. Apr 23, 2016
Casey Brown
Seattle, WA
 
Casey Brown   Seattle, WA
 
If you're looking to jump past classes going up, I'd advise not hitting up the old rusted bolts on the slab up and left of Cocaine Connection and downhill of R&D's official start. Bypassing those and moving up a large, body-sized groove to the trees and the route will get you on a wandery path.

It's all probably 5.6 with barely a touch of route-finding. Keep shooting for the path of least resistance while making for the left of the two chimneys. May 1, 2016
Mark Rafferty 1
Seattle, WA
 
Mark Rafferty 1   Seattle, WA
 
There are indeed nice new rap rings about 5m left of topmost anchor Boulder, you can rap back down to the tree ledge, and you can rap from there into the descent gulley. Watch your rope length on the tree rappel, as there are two ledges to land on and a 70 m rope will only get you to one of them. Just keep an eye on it.

Also, this route gets congested fast, so get there early! Jul 12, 2016
Jessica Adler
Seattle, WA
  5.6 PG13
Jessica Adler   Seattle, WA
  5.6 PG13
Easy & Fun - great for practicing trad and multi-pitch. We did it a 3P. There's overcammed piece that's rusted but solid on the second pitch. Jun 19, 2017
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
Serge Smirnov   Seattle, WA
Elevation gain might be 300', but the route is closer to 500. Aug 25, 2017
Jeffrey K
Seattle, WA
 
Jeffrey K   Seattle, WA
 
This can be done in 3 pitches with a 70m rope, 60m rope requires 4 pitches. Route is very traversing/slabby and falls can have a lot of rope in the system, so be wary. Climbing felt 5.6ish at the hardest points and more consistently 5.4ish. Jul 4, 2018
We did this in three pitches with a 70 meter rope. It may be mentioned elsewhere, but note that you'll be making gear anchors on the way up - there are bolts situated for rappels but not in natural positions for belays. We took a more direct option on the first pitch and it went like this:

1. Up the ramp to a short chimney. At the top of this chimney most parties go right to a belay station. We went straight up through the next chimney. It was a bit dirty, but obviously climbed. Above the second chimney we established a belay on a nice platform with good gear placements.

2. Up a low angle crack to the base of the flake chimney (see dotted lines in the picture). The step across to the chimney was sandy and wet (it snowed the day before), but the chimney itself is secure with great hands, feet, and gear. Belay from a sandy ledge at the top of the chimney.

3. Straight up the parallel cracks above (we took the easier one on the right). This is probably the crux. Another right trending low angle crack continues above the steep crack to get to the top. We had a 70m rope.

Take the rap rings down to the tree ledge. There are bolts in a groove above the tree. From these bolts a 70 meter rope will get you down past 2 ledges to the bottom, but you need to be careful when rappelling to get to the right spot. If you rap too far to the left (looking down) you will get to the end of the rope and have to down-climb 20 feet or so. This is the natural fall line from the rappel anchor, so take care to make sure your ends are touching down before committing to the last bit of the rappel. Be careful of loose rock on the last 20 feet.

IMHO it's easier to just walk down from the top Apr 29, 2019