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Routes in Icicle Buttress

Arch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bumper Belay S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Canadians On Horseback S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cocaine Connection S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cocaine Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crumble Pie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Forking Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Didn't Exhale S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R & D T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ramp, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spaghetti Sauce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tober T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 11,449 total · 107/month
Shared By: Tom Bath on Oct 26, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


156 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The route starts 100+ feet above the road on the left side of the crag. Follow a slab/corner 15ft to a short chimney and traverse right around a large block to the 1st belay. Follow blocky terrain with fun moves mixed in towards the chimney to the right of an obvious arching crack (Cocaine Crack) splitting the smooth face on the left. Head up the chimmey to a large ledge below several short seep cracks the rightmost of which is the easiest. Above here follow slabs and low angle cracks to the top.
Descent: Follow cairns up and to the left before heading into the descent gully.

Protection

Gear to 3".
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
 
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
 
Fun, easy to protect. Nice way to get pretty far above the canyon road! Aug 22, 2011
PhillR
  5.5
PhillR  
  5.5
Almost 90% of the route feels really easy (5.4-5.5), just a few 5.6 moves. Great for a beginning multi-pitch leader. Jan 29, 2013
jeb013
Portland
jeb013   Portland
For the decent there are now rap rings at the top that take you to the ledge above cocaine crack. Another anchor will take you to a ledge and then into the decent gully (this anchor does not have rings, you will need to bring sling/rap ring). This saves a lot of effort on the walk off. Aug 19, 2013
Fossman
  5.6
Fossman  
  5.6
Fun and easy! Great route for beginning trad leaders. May 19, 2015
Ben Stabley
Portland, OR
  5.6
Ben Stabley   Portland, OR
  5.6
Fun route! We did Cocaine Connection to start, and in sum got a nice mix of slab, chimney, and crack climbing. Takes protection very well. Walk down from the top was really no problem. Dec 10, 2015
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
 
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
 
fun little ROADSIDE climb. Great for building confidence as a new trad leader. I only gave it two stars because it lacks exposure, the whole time I hardly felt like I left the ground. Apr 23, 2016
Casey Brown
Seattle, WA
 
Casey Brown   Seattle, WA
 
If you're looking to jump past classes going up, I'd advise not hitting up the old rusted bolts on the slab up and left of Cocaine Connection and downhill of R&D's official start. Bypassing those and moving up a large, body-sized groove to the trees and the route will get you on a wandery path.

It's all probably 5.6 with barely a touch of route-finding. Keep shooting for the path of least resistance while making for the left of the two chimneys. May 1, 2016
Mark Rafferty 1
Seattle, WA
 
Mark Rafferty 1   Seattle, WA
 
There are indeed nice new rap rings about 5m left of topmost anchor Boulder, you can rap back down to the tree ledge, and you can rap from there into the descent gulley. Watch your rope length on the tree rappel, as there are two ledges to land on and a 70 m rope will only get you to one of them. Just keep an eye on it.

Also, this route gets congested fast, so get there early! Jul 12, 2016
Jessica Adler
  5.6 PG13
Jessica Adler  
  5.6 PG13
Easy & Fun - great for practicing trad and multi-pitch. We did it a 3P. There's overcammed piece that's rusted but solid on the second pitch. Jun 19, 2017
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
Serge Smirnov   Seattle, WA
Elevation gain might be 300', but the route is closer to 500. Aug 25, 2017
Jeffrey K
Seattle, WA
 
Jeffrey K   Seattle, WA
 
This can be done in 3 pitches with a 70m rope, 60m rope requires 4 pitches. Route is very traversing/slabby and falls can have a lot of rope in the system, so be wary. Climbing felt 5.6ish at the hardest points and more consistently 5.4ish. Jul 4, 2018

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