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Routes in Icicle Buttress

Arch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bumper Belay S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Canadians On Horseback S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cocaine Connection S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cocaine Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Forking Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Didn't Exhale S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R & D T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ramp, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spaghetti Sauce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tober T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 474 total · 10/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Jan 25, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

A worthwhile climb up the middle of Icicle Buttress. Maybe hard for a new 5.8 leader.
The 1st pitch goes up a wide blocky crack to a flaring but low angle hand crack to belay at the face of a steep wall above with a small tree or horizontal cracks under for a belay.
2nd pitch is a huge rightward traverse below the upper wall all the way out to the top, 5.8 lay back up on the last part. The Kramar guide calls the layback 5.8, but I did not find this, mostly low angle and not recommended. The first pitch is worth doing, just traverse left below or above the small tree belay to get onto last crack of R&D.

Location

Starts about mid way up the Buttress on a sloping bench that crosses all the way over to Cocaine crack. About 50' right of R&D. There are two cracks in sort of an inside corner, the left one is the 5.8. Cocaine connection would be a good approach pitch.Or even better approach keeping it all cracks would be the Arch , 5.8, and Forking crack, 5.9, and then wander across wet mossy slabs up and left.

Protection

gear to 3". no fixed anchors.

Photos

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Drederek
  5.8
Drederek  
  5.8
I thought the wide option just past the double roof was a fun way to get thru the upper wall to the top Aug 21, 2015