Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,596 total · 43/month
Shared By: Tom Bath on Nov 3, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

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Description Suggest change

A right leaning finger crack with great position and exposure. The crux occurs where the crack leans right in the upper half.

Location Suggest change

Splitting the clean face left of the R&D chimney, one pitch off the deck on the left side of Icicle Buttress.

There are several ways to get to Cocaine Crack as notated by Geoff Georges. The right or left variations to the first pitch of R&D lead up a shallow corner to the base of the crack. A direct 5.8 chimney can also be done in between the two, or the bolted slab route Cocaine Connection.

At the top of the crack you can go right or left under the roof. If you want to scramble off after Cocaine Crack head right and belay level with the roof, then walk off. Otherwise either side will take you to the 5.6 finish of R&D, which can be done in one long pitch to the top with a 70m rope. Then walk off Icicle Buttress to the left or rappel the route.

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 3", with an assortment of finger size pieces for the crack itself.