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Routes in G. Tradisfaction Wall

50 Sent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bite and Fight T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Biter, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bone Appetite S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicken Little Complex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Don't Doubt the Dojo T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dust-In Bones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raptor Ramp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Regular Standard Wiessner Route Direct Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sex Ed Saves Lives T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stockholm Syndrome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Xiphoid Process T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Dylan Oliver, Roderick Russell (Sept. 5, 2016)
Page Views: 172 total, 12/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Oct 6, 2016
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

A great route pair with Don't Fear the Dojo, on the right. The FA was done with at least 5 necessary cams left either on the ground or back in the car leaving 3 pieces for the final 65 feet. Memorable to say the least.

Climb the easy corner with great stemming and small gear to a great stance below the roof. Surprisingly easy climbing through the fun roof crack leads to a stance in the corner. Continue up the easy corner system and take one final shake before leaving the corner for a crack system that gets steep and then steeper still. It's not over until the top! 2-bolt anchor.

Named after a sharp fingerlock that made both Dylan and Roderick's fingers go numb when they grabbed it.

Location

Directly between Regular Standard Wiessner Route Direct Direct and Don't Doubt the Dojo.

Protection

Gear: Medium sized cams, emphasis on fingers and a 3" cam for the crux.

On the FA: "Oh, dude you didn't bring the 3?"

Do yourself a favor and bring the #3.

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