Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Dylan Oliver, Roderick Russell (Sept. 5, 2016)
Page Views: 223 total · 8/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Oct 6, 2016
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

A great route pair with Don't Fear the Dojo, on the right. The FA was done with at least 5 necessary cams left either on the ground or back in the car leaving 3 pieces for the final 65 feet. Memorable to say the least.

Climb the easy corner with great stemming and small gear to a great stance below the roof. Surprisingly easy climbing through the fun roof crack leads to a stance in the corner. Continue up the easy corner system and take one final shake before leaving the corner for a crack system that gets steep and then steeper still. It's not over until the top! 2-bolt anchor.

Named after a sharp fingerlock that made both Dylan and Roderick's fingers go numb when they grabbed it.

Location

Directly between Regular Standard Wiessner Route Direct Direct and Don't Doubt the Dojo.

Protection

Gear: Medium sized cams, emphasis on fingers and a 3" cam for the crux.

On the FA: "Oh, dude you didn't bring the 3?"

Do yourself a favor and bring the #3.

Photos

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