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Routes in G. Tradisfaction Wall

50 Sent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bite and Fight T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Biter, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bone Appetite S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicken Little Complex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Don't Doubt the Dojo T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dust-In Bones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raptor Ramp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Regular Standard Wiessner Route Direct Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sex Ed Saves Lives T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stockholm Syndrome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Xiphoid Process T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Connor Meyers, Ken Yamakazi (Oct. 16, 2016)
Page Views: 133 total · 8/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Oct 16, 2016
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

Think of this as the harder, burlier version of Dust-in Bones. First discovered by Conor Mark but we finally took it down two years later.

Make a well-protected, powerful move to get off the ground and established in the corner. Work the next 35 feet through strong but secure laybacking. Don't worry about getting pumped though, the stance under the roof is worse than it looks so the rest is terrible. Find the good jams to exit the stance and grunt, growl, and grovel through the meaty offwidth and chimney to the top to a two-bolt anchor.

Location

25 Feet right of The Biter and Don't Doubt the Dojo locate a bottomless corner capped with a wide roof.

Protection

Single rack up to a 4 perfectly protects. The 4 is critical for the roof.

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