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Routes in G. Tradisfaction Wall

50 Sent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bite and Fight T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Biter, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bone Appetite S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicken Little Complex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Don't Doubt the Dojo T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dust-In Bones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raptor Ramp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Regular Standard Wiessner Route Direct Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sex Ed Saves Lives T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stockholm Syndrome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Xiphoid Process T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Asya Zolotusky (May 21, 2017)
Page Views: 209 total, 31/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on May 22, 2017
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

I'm giving this one 4 stars not because of what it is, but because of what it could be. The moves and position are undoubtedly among the best at Bone Mountain and the fact that it goes on gear is wild for how steep and exposed it is. Steep, exposed, moderate trad? Yum. 60-meter rope required.

Begin in the right-facing corner with good stemming until the corner ends. Step left and continue up and right on steeper and steeper terrain. Romp straight up the impressive arete/face finding just enough gear along the way. Don't pump out before a tricky mantle which gains a stance. Enjoy the immaculate view for just a moment before stepping right onto a great featured slab to gain a two-bolt anchor shared with Bone Appetite.

Punny name provided by Arthur Chukhman for my 50th FA.

Protection

I placed every cam I had from Metolius 0 to a BD #3 and still needed 4 stoppers. This thing is long so plan accordingly.

I'd suggest a full rack with doubles in finger-sized pieces and at least 12 draws.

Location

Obvious right-facing corner with a fingercrack 15 feet left of Bone Appetite and 30 feet left of Dust-In Bones.

Photos

Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
 
Hey Tim,

I suppose I could agree with that. I feel like considering it took all passive gear I felt pretty comfortable on it but I did change it to a PG-13 rating. I think R is a little steep but I'll climb it again with a closer eye and see how it goes. I would also definitely support your statement that it's probably not suitable for those breaking into the grade. Aug 14, 2017
Tim McLaughlin  
5.9 R
Beautiful Climbing in a stunning position. Definitely needs a little cleaning to be classic.

I have concerns about some of the placements on the upper half. Some of the blocks seem well detached. Bypassing them makes for serious run outs. I would not recommend this route for someone breaking into the grade. Aug 11, 2017