Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Routes in G. Tradisfaction Wall
|50 Sent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Bite and Fight T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Biter, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Bone Appetite S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Chicken Little Complex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Don't Doubt the Dojo T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Dust-In Bones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Raptor Ramp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Regular Standard Wiessner Route Direct Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Sex Ed Saves Lives T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Stockholm Syndrome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Xiphoid Process T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 95 ft|
|FA:||Kristofer Fiore, Asya Zolotusky (May 21, 2017)|
|Page Views:||209 total, 31/month|
|Shared By:||Kris Fiore on May 22, 2017|
|Admins:||Luc-514, Kris Fiore|
DescriptionI'm giving this one 4 stars not because of what it is, but because of what it could be. The moves and position are undoubtedly among the best at Bone Mountain and the fact that it goes on gear is wild for how steep and exposed it is. Steep, exposed, moderate trad? Yum. 60-meter rope required.
Begin in the right-facing corner with good stemming until the corner ends. Step left and continue up and right on steeper and steeper terrain. Romp straight up the impressive arete/face finding just enough gear along the way. Don't pump out before a tricky mantle which gains a stance. Enjoy the immaculate view for just a moment before stepping right onto a great featured slab to gain a two-bolt anchor shared with Bone Appetite.
Punny name provided by Arthur Chukhman for my 50th FA.
ProtectionI placed every cam I had from Metolius 0 to a BD #3 and still needed 4 stoppers. This thing is long so plan accordingly.
I'd suggest a full rack with doubles in finger-sized pieces and at least 12 draws.