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Routes in C-Section
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[Redacted] S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Brow TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dystocia S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Entry Level S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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First Dibs S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Heavy Duty Judy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Korbomite Maneuver S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Patrick Hedgeclipper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pebble Beach S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Peckerwood S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Radiation Fear S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sky is Falling, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Sweaty Betty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Warden Pete's TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wishbone Crack S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 843 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | JFaczak on Sep 5, 2016 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
Start directly under the arch of the "brow". Open pockets create an easy start. This climb has you moving left, going right leads to the another climb.
Once you transition left, you hit the crux and the few tough moves. There's a left hand finger pocket on the face of the rock above the brow. There's a undercling in top arch of the brow. These will let you set your feet and get to the "problem".
It's a cruxy...long...reach from the finger pocket to the U-shaped "ledge" above the brow. 6-footers should be able to reach the lichen covered 2 finger flake in the middle of the "U". Those of shorter stature, this is a lot larger of a problem. I had to make a big move and throw to it to get to the center flake.
After the flake are some more crimpers until you can set your feet. A triangular jug sits above the "U", and after that, it's all big pockets again to the top.
Once you transition left, you hit the crux and the few tough moves. There's a left hand finger pocket on the face of the rock above the brow. There's a undercling in top arch of the brow. These will let you set your feet and get to the "problem".
It's a cruxy...long...reach from the finger pocket to the U-shaped "ledge" above the brow. 6-footers should be able to reach the lichen covered 2 finger flake in the middle of the "U". Those of shorter stature, this is a lot larger of a problem. I had to make a big move and throw to it to get to the center flake.
After the flake are some more crimpers until you can set your feet. A triangular jug sits above the "U", and after that, it's all big pockets again to the top.
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