Type: Sport
FA: TR: Kathy Shannon, '88. FA: bolted: Richard Wright, Anna Bran
Page Views: 3,112 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

31 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


This is a good beginner/warmup route. Start on the next section of wall S. of Beta Slave on a black water streak not as prominent as Pat Hedgeclipper. Move up on good holds all the way to the anchors.


5 QDs to a double bolt anchor.


Did this route on 3/31/02. Last bolt and both anchors are spinning, seemed solid, maybe just need to be tightened up some. Apr 2, 2002
I did this around 4/03, and it is more like a 5.10 when it's wet. May 14, 2003
Darin Lang
Darin Lang  
This climb would certainly be much harder when wet. Even bone dry, though, at least one move on this route feels a little tricky for 5.8. Maybe 5.8d. May 15, 2003
I tried to tighten the bolt at the anchor and it didn't turn easy so i let it be, the hole must not have been deep enough when the bolt was installed. I also agree that the crux move feels harder than the 5.8 grade would imply. Maybe i used the wrong hand holds or didn't look long enough? Has anyone taken any falls any of the bolts, can't say that i like cold shut bolt hangers

Jun 12, 2004
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
I fell with my feet above a bolt in the crux and it was fine. Hard 5.8, but I am not good at cobble climbing so everything at Castlewood feels sandbagged to me. Jun 16, 2004
Still think the crux move is in the .9 area, but anyhow i installed chains at the top, enjoy. Jun 26, 2004
Bear Creek, CO
percious   Bear Creek, CO
Chains have been moved to other routes (not by me), they were a bit unnecessary. Bolts at the top need to be replaced due to corrosion.

I would say the crux move at the roof is closer to 5.9 than 5.8, so I give it a 5.9-. Also, getting to the first bolt may be a challenge for a 5.8 climber to onsight. Feb 8, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Agreed that it is hard at the given 5.8 grade... but is still the obvious area warm-up. Dec 13, 2009
Wayne Monnett
Englewood, CO
Wayne Monnett   Englewood, CO
7.27.2010 be wary, the first bolt is missing. Didn't notice how high the first bolt was until I was almost 20ft up. There are only 4 bolts now, and you can see the hole where the bottom bolt used to be. We moved on because the fall would be onto rocks, not ground, so was looking at a broken ankle in the very least. Jul 27, 2010
Alex Dean  
The first bolt must have been replaced, because it was there when I climbed it today. Mar 20, 2011
Brother Numsie
Brother Numsie   AnCapistan
This route had its gear updated with new hangers and better anchors during the Winter of 2009/10 (permitted anchor replacement for the whole wall). In addition, I was just there a couple weeks ago; and the first bolt is as it has always been. I think Wayne has to be talking about one of the routes at Morning Sun Wall, as they do get their hangers stolen. Mar 20, 2011
Boston, MA
mikeross   Boston, MA
Good warm up for the harder routes at C-section. I originally confused this route with another 5.8ish climb (also a good warmup) that is in the black streak next to The Sky is Falling. Does anybody know what this route is? Or the one to the right of it, but before Entry Level? They do not appear to be listed on mtn proj.... Aug 11, 2012