Mountain Project Logo

Routes in C-Section

Beta Slave S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Brow TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Entry Level S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Dibs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heavy Duty Judy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Korbomite Maneuver S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Patrick Hedgeclipper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pebble Beach S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Peckerwood S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Radiation Fear S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky is Falling, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wishbone Crack S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: TR: Kathy Shannon, '88. FA: bolted: Richard Wright, Anna Bran
Page Views: 2,944 total, 14/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


30 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a good beginner/warmup route. Start on the next section of wall S. of Beta Slave on a black water streak not as prominent as Pat Hedgeclipper. Move up on good holds all the way to the anchors.

Protection

5 QDs to a double bolt anchor.
mikeross
Boston, MA
  5.8+
mikeross   Boston, MA
  5.8+
Good warm up for the harder routes at C-section. I originally confused this route with another 5.8ish climb (also a good warmup) that is in the black streak next to The Sky is Falling. Does anybody know what this route is? Or the one to the right of it, but before Entry Level? They do not appear to be listed on mtn proj.... Aug 11, 2012
Mike Lane
Centennial, CO
  5.9-
Mike Lane   Centennial, CO
  5.9-
This route had its gear updated with new hangers and better anchors during the Winter of 2009/10 (permitted anchor replacement for the whole wall). In addition, I was just there a couple weeks ago; and the first bolt is as it has always been. I think Wayne has to be talking about one of the routes at Morning Sun Wall, as they do get their hangers stolen. Mar 20, 2011
Alex Dean  
 
The first bolt must have been replaced, because it was there when I climbed it today. Mar 20, 2011
Wayne Monnett
Englewood, CO
Wayne Monnett   Englewood, CO
7.27.2010 be wary, the first bolt is missing. Didn't notice how high the first bolt was until I was almost 20ft up. There are only 4 bolts now, and you can see the hole where the bottom bolt used to be. We moved on because the fall would be onto rocks, not ground, so was looking at a broken ankle in the very least. Jul 27, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Agreed that it is hard at the given 5.8 grade... but is still the obvious area warm-up. Dec 13, 2009
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.9-
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.9-
Chains have been moved to other routes (not by me), they were a bit unnecessary. Bolts at the top need to be replaced due to corrosion.

I would say the crux move at the roof is closer to 5.9 than 5.8, so I give it a 5.9-. Also, getting to the first bolt may be a challenge for a 5.8 climber to onsight. Feb 8, 2009
Robert76
  5.9-
Robert76  
  5.9-
Still think the crux move is in the .9 area, but anyhow i installed chains at the top, enjoy. Jun 26, 2004
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8+
I fell with my feet above a bolt in the crux and it was fine. Hard 5.8, but I am not good at cobble climbing so everything at Castlewood feels sandbagged to me. Jun 16, 2004
Robert76
  5.9-
Robert76  
  5.9-
I tried to tighten the bolt at the anchor and it didn't turn easy so i let it be, the hole must not have been deep enough when the bolt was installed. I also agree that the crux move feels harder than the 5.8 grade would imply. Maybe i used the wrong hand holds or didn't look long enough? Has anyone taken any falls any of the bolts, can't say that i like cold shut bolt hangers

Jun 12, 2004
Darin Lang
  5.8+
Darin Lang  
  5.8+
This climb would certainly be much harder when wet. Even bone dry, though, at least one move on this route feels a little tricky for 5.8. Maybe 5.8d. May 15, 2003
I did this around 4/03, and it is more like a 5.10 when it's wet. May 14, 2003
Did this route on 3/31/02. Last bolt and both anchors are spinning, seemed solid, maybe just need to be tightened up some. Apr 2, 2002