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Routes in C-Section

Beta Slave S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Brow TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Entry Level S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Dibs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heavy Duty Judy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Korbomite Maneuver S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Patrick Hedgeclipper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pebble Beach S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peckerwood S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Radiation Fear S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky is Falling, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wishbone Crack S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport
FA: Anderson, Lane - November 1989? Dave Fields (?), 1993
Page Views: 785 total · 4/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 17, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Chase a line of bolts just right of Radiation Fear via large pockets on a left diagonal to a good stance. Chill, pull the face on thin edges and get established below the short arete above. Get a clip under the arete's roof and another on the face above. A nifty, kinesthetic sequence polishes the arete and gains the anchor. This sequence may be closer to 10d than 10c. This is a fun route and one of the best on the wall.

Protection

Six draws and a rope.

Photos

This is a great climb and I agree with the 10c. Note that "sport climbing is neither", though (just kidding!) Dec 28, 2001
ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
Fun climb with a great finish but 10c/d?! Really? I did Beta Slave the same day and found that to be a much more challenging climb. Maybe I was cheating on this one. Are all the juggs off limits or something like that? This whole climb is super juggy except for the last two moves. Apr 7, 2003
Brother Numsie
Nepal
 
Brother Numsie   Nepal
 
I listed this as 10.a in the '94 Rock & Ice guide. As Tom, Tod, Richard, Scott and I were there just about every weekend at the time, I'm pretty sure that was consenus. The arete pull is the only "hard" move, and even then only because you can't see the key pocket. Then again, we were on these routes so often that we got inadvertantly sandbaggy. 10b might be right. Nov 16, 2003
Shane Zentner
Colorado
 
Shane Zentner   Colorado
 
5.10c/d seems sufficient to me. This got interesting at the top near the arete. Plenty of winter sunshine! Jan 3, 2004
FA - Anderson, Lane - November 1989 Jul 18, 2008

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