Old Route Direct
Avg: 3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||P1 "Direct" Ben Smith and Matt Barker , original line AMC-ers in the 1930's ?|
|Page Views:||271 total, 17/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Jul 17, 2016|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionNOTE: The route described was as we did it, our P2 and/or beginning of P3 may not be the exact line of the FA.
Start at the "toe" of the slab. (photo)
P1 - Pad up the smooth, unprotected slab [5.5 R?] to the first overlap and a bolt. Over the overlap (crux, 5.7 / 5.7-) and then continue straight up the magnificent slab above, passing a 2nd bolt. We belayed under an overlap above, but I think a much better belay (gear) is to the right in a curved flake (photo) 120 ft 5.7 / 5.7-
NOTE: Either P1 and P2 can be combined, or P2 and P3, but we thought is very pleasant as a 3-pitch climb.
P2 - We followed sort of a diagonal slash up and right through overlaps to a good stance and gear belay just left of the pegmatite. 75-90 ft 5.5
P3 - Up and slightly left-ish through impressive looking overlaps, passing a Lost Arrow piton [photo], to a double bolt anchor. A very interesting pitch, in that the overlaps are "tricky" in that a foot or two and a different sequence can make the moves a grade or two different. 80 feet 5.5 to 5.7 depending..
DESCENT - You can rap from the double bolt anchor (2 ropes ) to the double bolt anchor on Contact [off to rapeller's/ climber's right] and then to the ground, or if you want to go back to the car...
P4 - Climb the clean, low angle slab above. Go through a small tree island to a bit more rock above and end at a flattish boulder about 3 ft across. 100 ft Class 3/4
From here, move up and right generally keeping to the rock, then cut back left-ish up with a class 3 or two move on trees/rock to the trees where you should hit a boundry-survey line. Follow this down and climber's left. When you "cliff out" at a survey sign and post-in-rock, backtrack 40-50 ft and descend the gully back to the "path" to the road.